Zone of Silence

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Highway Turtle


36.
+1
1 votes

Amelia's Birthday 5.11b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Hugh Loeffler in 2003
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This line climbs the face just right of the previous route. Begin on a small ledge and climb the pocketed face past 4 bolts to a 15 foot runout before the anchors.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.86 stars (28 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (23 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 8th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Yasmeen said on June 24th, 2003
Does this thing really suck that much or did someone forget the stars??
2
goodguy said on June 29th, 2003
This route is really good classic red river pocket pulling. 2-3stars for sure. If you start from the boulder its about 11a/b, if from the ground, 12a. Have fun figuring out the anchor clipping sequence!
3
Anonymous said on August 21st, 2003
the name is Amelia's Birhtday Route. FA Hugh Loeffler May/03
4
said on August 21st, 2003
Josh, is this the route you took your huge whipper on? I have updated the route name and rating as per the FA, Hugh Loeffler's request.
5
goodguy said on August 23rd, 2003
Ya this is the one! Like I said, watch that you get the sequence right at the anchors!
6
the lurkist said on August 26th, 2003
The run out to the anchors is about fifteen feet and the fall is clean. The difficulty is 5.10 (on this last section). Not too bad. It puts the sport back into sport climbing.
7
said on July 20th, 2004
yes it does, Hugh! Clean fall, but a heart stopper for anyone watching!!
8
Acer said on September 20th, 2004
Very sporty when theres a wasp nest on the last hold. Watch out! There were two wasps staring down at me while I tried to clip the anchors. Very exciting Lurk.
9
Power2U said on October 30th, 2006
Very hard if you start form the ground, the ledge start makes more sense for how the rest of the route climbs. Route needs some traffic and the quality may increase. I broke a foot hold first go and whipped. The top run out is headdy.
10
Paul3eb said on October 29th, 2007
great route, especially if you like two and three-finger pockets. wouldn't have minded if the anchors were about a foot lower.. or if i were a foot taller. get a friend to hang the second draw.
11
Lander said on October 22nd, 2010
just curious, does everyone start this climb from the ledge? the lower start definitely makes it harder than 11c i think.
12
SCIN said on October 23rd, 2010
I did Lander.
13
pawilkes said on October 24th, 2010
I know the FA did the route from the ground. I did the route and then he got on it to show me how it is "supposed" to be done. It looked much harder his way but a bit contrived
14
pigsteak said on October 24th, 2010
as long as you do not claim the send pawilkes and take the points,all is good. you did a variation, and not the "real" route.
15
Lander said on October 24th, 2010
pigsteak, i don't know but i'm guessing most folks do the 'variation' and that's why the grade went from 12a to11c. but if that's the case, they shouldn't have added it to their spray. but you know climbers are always going to take the path of least resistance. or is the start contrived? this is confusing me.
16
pawilkes said on October 24th, 2010
Given the location of the first bolt, the start on the ledge to the left is the more obvious start. I only heard that the original start was from the ground after I did it and the route was downgraded given the start from the ledge
17
jimmy said on October 17th, 2011
My $0.02 - This is a 4 star 11b that begins on a ledge. It has an exciting finish.
18
Spikeddem said on April 6th, 2014
So exciting!
19
JohnnyKy said on September 16th, 2016
Why is this called Amelias Birthday i am changing the name to Fear of Flight and your not allowed to stick clip! jj