Impossible Choss

This route is located in the Natural Bridge Region at Torrent Falls - LIMITED ACCESS

Last Resort


6.
+0
0 votes

Tourist Trap 5.9 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Terry Kindred in 2003
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route ascends the arete left of Family Value. Climb funky start then move left to reach the 2nd bolt. Head right for the arete and enjoy fun climbing to a mantel move before the anchors.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Torrent Falls
Steepness:
pumpy (1) arete (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.7 stars (71 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (62 votes)

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Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Sep 24th, 2013

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
The Pirate said on March 1st, 2004
I thought this was one of the best 5.9 routes in the red...
2
ender_xx said on July 30th, 2004
Really? I thought it was one of the worst...
3
haas said on August 11th, 2004
I think the start is great, one of the best 5.9 sports in the red...
4
Anonymous said on January 11th, 2005
The sign at torrent has this rated a 5.10A...very tricky start then a walkup!
5
Caspian said on March 27th, 2005
This is a three star route
6
cassio598 said on June 20th, 2005
This is a pretty fun route, though the start can be pretty sketchy. I'm glad I'm not super short like my partner was.
7
K-Dawg said on September 27th, 2005
All of the holds at the start are great, its just intimidating and possibly height dependant. The rest of the route is long and fun. Changing the anchors might be tough for someone short.
8
merrick said on November 11th, 2005
wet slimey fun boulder problem!!! then a really fun arete, how could you not do this one?
9
caribe said on March 13th, 2006
If you want more fun, stick clip the 2nd bolt and climb the nose from the ground, start right under the roof in the picture above. This will involve campusing until half your body length and then throwing your feet up to just above the lip. At this point I was still leaning back. I made it above the roof but there was nothing for my left hand at the top. I peeled. I am going to try that again. well actually I tried this 3x... but I am going to try if again. I climbed it the plain vanilla way also.
10
Captain Bad Beta said on July 6th, 2006
It was raining the day we did this... the start was so slimy. I thought the moves were 'height dependant' for the first bolt. Probably not the best route for the new lead climber. However, the arete from the second bolt on was fun.
11
Wolf said on July 11th, 2006
Awesome climb! Really fun movement.
12
AdventureBrandon said on November 17th, 2006
Rather slimy. Be prepared for a thin coat of gunk, especially at the start. Also, due to the endurance factor, I'd give this a 10a.
13
ahab said on April 21st, 2008
Once the strange start is cleared this is a really fun climb. Didn't notice any overly manky areas (maybe the bottom part) despite it having rained all morning.
14
twan said on November 10th, 2008
Very Fun Start And Just Keeps Going From There.
15
hjhrocks said on June 22nd, 2012
best route ive ever climbed, moves up to the small ledge are chossy and often wet though
16
Rain Man said on August 30th, 2012
The start gives a cool illusion of danger (assuming the first bolt is clipped). There isn't much rhyme or flow to the climb, but it is a very good trainer when you need to learn how to rest effectively. Parting thoughts, please add a second bolt at the last bolt as a possible "anchors" location. I don't see a benefit to standing up to clip the anchors...the route is over already. On top-rope, one is pulled OUT of the recess by the belayer. Bring very long straps for cleaning.
17
EricDorsey said on August 30th, 2012
What a strange post by RainMan.... it gives the illusion of making sense but I don't think I could fit more nonsensical rambling into one post if I tried. Did this climb last weekend and though it was great. Kinda weird and wet start but the climbing up the arete is super fun! Dont forget those long straps for cleaning....
18
dustonian said on August 30th, 2012
my straps are longer than yours...