Octopus Tag

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Playground

Teeter Totter


9.
+0
0 votes

Balance Beam 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: John Bronaugh in 2004
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of Octupus Tag is an obvious slabby section of the wall. This is the first bolted line on the wall. Climb the slab to anchors.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.1 stars (79 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (70 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
vic said on June 3rd, 2004
Nice technical moves... It's all there. One of the few slabs I enjoyed figuring out the moves on. Worth doing.
2
said on July 7th, 2004
I must have climbed around all the 11b moves...
3
Saxman said on September 12th, 2004
Dammit Sandy, get out of that crack!
4
Wes said on June 28th, 2005
Felt like 5.11 to me, I stayed right under the bolts or just to the right for most of the route. Several solid moves toward the top. I could see it being easier if you were way to the left, but that would be some ugly falls on lead.
5
Anonymous said on July 13th, 2005
If you climbed around all the 11b moves, why do you claim to have done the route?
6
ray said on September 25th, 2005
That is the gayest comment I have ever read. Do you suck your thumb while stroking the crotch of your Curious George doll at night?
7
domtizr said on November 23rd, 2005
sorry about that, anyway, flashed this route, and I can't climb 5.11 particularly slab, so I give it 10c, maybe d, And I stayed away from the big holds to the left, mucho fun though.
8
merrick said on December 12th, 2005
felt 11b to me and I have climbed a fair amount of 11 slabs here and other places. However I am short and all the hardness came at the crux below the anchors. it was fun regardless of the grade so who really cares.
9
Power2U said on April 10th, 2006
fun moves, clean rock, much easier than its cousin to the right, probably more 11a.
10
dyno_heaven said on December 27th, 2006
barefoot onsight with greg
11
bhuff04 said on October 9th, 2007
No harder than Toxic Avenger...
12
Lander said on November 25th, 2007
Wow, this is a really fun climb. It's techy but its all there. 10d I think.
13
michaelarmand said on June 22nd, 2008
Great climb, loved all of it....
14
Jeff said on September 7th, 2008
Fun route.
15
NateS GR said on October 16th, 2008
Real balancey climbing, hence the name. Pretty easy until about 2/3 the way up and then you hit a pretty good crux. Pull through the harder move and you've got it.
16
Brentucky said on August 30th, 2009
Very fun climb. Don't give up until you get above the anchors!
17
Rollo said on April 7th, 2013
easy for the grade if yer tall...that grade being 11a.
18
tazunemono said on July 16th, 2017
Really good route, similar to Psyberpunk and Random Precision, but easier than either of those because you have "options". (Although my friend who made it up Random Precision struggled with this line for some reason?) in our opinion it's solid 5.11a. Easier than Random Precision by just a hair, and would be 5 stars if not compared to that line. It's much more straightforward. Crimp, high step, crimp, jug, repeat. Get on it!