Prometheus Unbound

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Sanctuary

Atlas Shrugged


8.
+4
5 votes

Jesus Wept 5.12d (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Tim Powers, Mike Susko in 2004
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Hyper classic route located between two small, left-facing dihedrals. Climb out of the amphitheater to a vertical pocketed face. Step right around the roof and follow more pockets to anchors under a final roof. Aesthetic pocket climbing with several cruxes along the way. Use a 60m rope.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
pockets (3) dynamic (2) classic (2) beautiful (2) shady (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.94 stars (94 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12d (71 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: brayackmedia
Date: Dec 22nd, 2010

Submitted by: maxclimb11
Date: Jun 12th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jun 7th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jun 7th, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
J-Rock said on July 20th, 2004
Wow! What a stunning line!
2
Spoonman said on September 27th, 2004
Very fun and aesthetic route!
3
Anonymous said on November 8th, 2004
Really great route! The 4th bolt is in a really bad spot, use a super long draw for that bolt, your rope could get cut on the flake if the draw is too short. Maybe team muir will consider moving the bolt to a better spot?
4
allah said on February 25th, 2005
Heard it was a pile :)
5
Power2U said on May 22nd, 2005
Stellar!
6
Anonymous said on October 31st, 2005
cmon, 12c soft
7
Anonymous said on November 1st, 2005
cmon, who cares what the grade is, its still a great route.
8
Andrew said on April 30th, 2006
One of the best routes in the Red.
9
Dhaulagiri said on May 30th, 2006
Great route, wish I had an excuse for failing on it
10
chouca said on October 26th, 2006
hard bouldery section at the 2nd bolt but most people fall at the top. 6 stars on a 5 star scale.
11
heavyc said on January 9th, 2007
one of the 5 best routes in the Red
12
Andrew said on January 10th, 2007
Heavyc, hope you didn't break all the holds off, or pull the wall over.
13
Anonymous said on January 10th, 2007
He must be the one that broke off the good half of the long horizontal crimp to the left of the second bolt. Looks like it will be a little harder now.
14
ray said on January 10th, 2007
Piggie's buddy onsited it this past weekend. Pretty good.
15
pigsteak said on January 11th, 2007
he's not my buddy.....no one that climbs that hard would even hang with me...except that I gave him a warm couch upon which to crash. he also did table (original) second go the next day.
16
Tunica Intima said on January 15th, 2007
Very fun, beautiful wall, classic movement.
17
jupitervast said on March 16th, 2007
Gnarly route. Hyper classic indeed!
18
maxclimb11 said on June 3rd, 2007
beautiful route , best route for the grade, stellr!
19
Anonymous said on November 2nd, 2007
all sport climbers like men in tights........ especially the kentcky and colorado sport climbers.........
20
Anonymous said on April 8th, 2009
Great route, but how much of the top was drilled?
21
t bone said on April 8th, 2009
None of it was drilled. those pockets are all natural.
22
Anonymous said on April 10th, 2009
Actually the whole route was designed on the ground in a clay mould, the wall was then erected (by andrew the "human crane") and is now standing solid for all of us to enjoy! No drilling though, just intricate carving. Oh p.s. the carving designers initially designed this as a 12c not 12d. SOFT!
23
Jay Z. said on June 20th, 2009
It may be soft for the grade, but i would still call it 12d, it is def harder than wild gift, blood bath, or stain for example
24
Lil Josh said on July 12th, 2009
Funnest route I've been on this summer.
25
thatclimberguy1 said on March 7th, 2010
I've not climbing everywhere in the world...yet, ha. Buuutt i'm pretty sure this is one of the most beautiful lines out there. it's my project going on it's 3rd season, and i feel like it's going to go down this spring,summer, or fall... but hopefully spring! haha.
26
SeanStone said on November 29th, 2010
Every hold on the route is perfect, the movement is exciting and committing, and aesthetically speaking, the line is absolutely magnificent!
27
Smiley said on April 9th, 2013
Seconded: Probably a good idea to put a longer draw or locker on the fourth bolt. The gate opens on the permadraw when loaded against the wall.
28
Willy said on February 14th, 2017
Permas everywhere except for the first bolt and the chains. Be sure to bring something along or prepare to jump/downclimb if you go to the top.