In a Pinch

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium

Psycho Billy Cadillac


6.
+0
0 votes

Indecision 5.8 (Trad) ***

First Ascent: Ed Griffiths, Jeff Smith, Ken Thompson in 2004
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

Click for more images
This highly recommended route begins left of approach trail where it meets the cliff. Begin with easy face climbing left of the arete then step right to gain the enjoyable crack. Enjoy the ride and soak in the view of the valley from the top. Lower from rap anchors.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.02 stars (43 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (32 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: tunedvwgti
Date: Aug 7th, 2017

Submitted by: brhe224
Date: Jul 27th, 2013

Comments

1
cushman said on September 13th, 2004
Andy Welter and I climbed this route on 9/13/04. Excellent route, it just needs to be climbed more to be cleaned of weak edges and lichen. The first section is indeed a juggy section, some weak rock here. The crack is good, and leads up to a slabby section at the top. You can belay from the beginning of the slabby section in a good horizontal crack. At the top the slab is balancy with pro in eyebrows. We could not rappel from the proper top of the cliff down the line of the climb with a 60m rope, and ended up rapelling from the tree slings of "No Bones About It". 60m rope required. I would estimate the length of this climb at 110ft.
2
kneebar said on March 3rd, 2005
Climb has rap anchors added. 95' to the ground.
3
Anonymous said on February 1st, 2006
I LOVED this route. Fun, casual, nice view. Better to rapell than lower. -huggybone
4
Anonymous said on February 27th, 2006
Outstanding route 4.5 stars. I rate this much higher than the 3 stars in the guide book. Suggest future parties bring a wire brush and do a little cleaing on your way down for the benefit of all.
5
J-Rock said on March 5th, 2006
Exciting finish! What a view!
6
weber said on October 23rd, 2006
Fun. Protects well. Great view of the Tantroft Hollow and both the Inner Sanctum and the Tectonics Wall.
7
Jeff said on October 21st, 2009
Great route, great gear, feels like NC hanging out at the anchors bring up your second. If you're a 5.8 trad leader, it's a must-do.
8
DuppyC said on November 16th, 2009
Fun route to possibly the best top out in Muir.
9
rjackson said on January 17th, 2010
Great way to end a day at the Stadium.
10
dustonian said on March 14th, 2011
Classic route... this wall has an airy North Carolina or Tenn. Wall kind of feel to it. Highly recommended.
11
campby said on July 18th, 2014
Very Classic. Worth the walk out even if just going to stadium for Indecision. Just go do it!
12
DrRockso said on March 26th, 2017
Can't believe I overlooked this one for so long. Fantastic route. Face climbing, nice crack, friction slab, and a stellar view, this one has it all.
13
DrRockso said on July 11th, 2017
A couple more bolts now lead to the top of the cliff and an additional set of anchors. Stop at the intermediate set of anchors on the way down to ensure having enough rope and to avoid bad rope drag on the pull.
14
tunedvwgti said on August 7th, 2017
I enjoyed this climb and the view from the top. To me I felt like it had a lot of variety, with big jugs and steep terrain early, followed by a slightly flaring crack, then some slab. I really enjoyed it and felt like the stances were super comfortable to place gear. I'd recommend it for 5.7 leaders looking to do a 5.8. Glad we topped out at the second anchors... gorgeous view and pretty unique for RRG