Immodium AD

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bruisebrothers Wall

The Offering


15.
-1
1 votes

Don't Take Yer Guns to Town 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Rob Copeland in 2004
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Climb short dihedral to easy slab and big roof. Hand traverse right and make a long move to pull the roof. One move wonder.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.04 stars (78 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (70 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Apr 25th, 2014

Submitted by: ahab
Date: Nov 12th, 2007

Comments

1
squeezindlemmon said on July 23rd, 2004
A long sling or draw on the roof might be helpful against rope drag.
2
J-Rock said on September 14th, 2004
The anchors (which can't be seen from the ground) are located 5-10 feet directly above the last bolt.
3
J-Rock said on September 14th, 2004
The anchors (which can't be seen from the ground) are located 5-10 feet directly above the last bolt.
4
Anonymous said on September 22nd, 2004
This is a great route. Easy to the roof, followed by several harder moves to the top. It's a little concerning the way the route traverses when you can't see the anchors, but in all a solid, fun route.
5
Sco Bro said on March 28th, 2005
I could not find the anchors. I was hanging on the roof forever trying to figure out where to go. Damn't. And it ain't over once you pull the roof. That climb bitch slapped me and sent me for a whipper.
6
john e aragon said on May 13th, 2005
5.8 my ass
7
john e aragon said on May 13th, 2005
5.8 when pigs fly
8
bhuff04 said on June 7th, 2005
That was such an awesome route! What a cool crux! It was nice when you get over the bulge and see those anchors appear.
9
tamara said on June 21st, 2005
If you are short like me, a hand/butt match on the ledge gets you to better holds to pull through the crux.
10
cephas said on August 1st, 2005
My first and only (as of yet) 5.10!! Woo Hoo!! 7-29-05. One of the best days of my life! This climb kicks butt, it is certainly a long move to get past the roof! I'm 6' 1" and I got stuck there on my first attempt. Though I found a sweet horn/flake that I hadnt seen before on my second attempt and It got me up. The bolts come out of nowhere, be careful not to climb past them!
11
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
Fun crux move but this is certainly a "one move wonder." Aside from the crux, this is a 5.7 at best.
12
AdventureBrandon said on September 7th, 2006
A great first 5.10 if you're looking to grow! Definitely rig one long draw (24") for the bolt over the roof as rope drag is a bear!
13
caribe said on October 4th, 2006
For the long move at the roof, I pulled it off with a left heel hook and a long dead point right-handed reach. My climbing partner (Gladhander) who is a little taller, climbed it as well as I did with a right heel hook and a longer move than the one I made.
14
merrick said on October 16th, 2006
two small crimps make the reach fine for the shorter climber. it is a powerful move though. lots of fun!
15
keith_b00ne said on October 23rd, 2007
Nice climb. Maybe a 5.7-5.8 up to the crux.
16
possum2082 said on April 12th, 2008
WARNING!!!!!!!! THE 5th BOLT ON THIS ROUTE IS BENT!!!!! i'm not sure who to talk to about this as i'm new to sport climbing.
17
pigsteak said on April 13th, 2008
5th bolt is bent, or the hanger is bent? being new to the sport, you may not know that some older hangers have a bend in them initially..no reason for alarm. but if the bolt is bent, we have a problem.
18
possum2082 said on April 13th, 2008
ic! well, n/m then. i misspoke. the bolt is fine, the hanger has a bend in it. i just freaked out b/c the rest of them had straight hangers. thanks for clearing that up.
19
Bruisebrother said on April 14th, 2008
Come on Piggie now you're showing your inexperience. The 'bent' hangers aren't old! Just a brand you're not familiar with. Like 'T-Bone' says 'Somtimes being around a long time makes you smarter than the rest of the crowd'.
20
pigsteak said on April 14th, 2008
i stand corrected bruise..I was not familiar with the new bent style.
21
512OW said on April 14th, 2008
What brand are they? I don't recall ever seeing a hanger that looked "bent" out of the ordinary...
22
Brentucky said on May 9th, 2008
the two bolts above the roof are both easy to clip from below the roof so no need to fear a bad fall as one might "guess" from the ground. don't let that deter you from the route.
23
Buzz said on June 15th, 2008
Felt like 10c route. Tried to dyno from below the ledge but could not find grip above.
24
XenCade said on July 20th, 2008
This is more than a one move wonder, the last bolt to the anchors is a beast too. Had to plug a cam between last bolt and anchors. Anchors are straight above the last bolt, which you cannot see even if you are pushing off the wall if you're 5'9" :)
25
Myke Dronez said on July 20th, 2008
Had to plug a cam? Are you serious? I guess MV does have some serious runouts- maybe a couple of big nuts would've done the trick.
26
512OW said on July 21st, 2008
Not "had" to place a cam... how about "wussed out and chose" to place a cam?
27
Saxman said on July 23rd, 2008
Yeah, you better carry a couple of cams at all times in Muir. You never know when the land owner is going to let the crazy bolters put up death routes.
28
Anonymous said on August 22nd, 2008
two nuts....good one.
29
andrew.reed said on September 23rd, 2008
used wrong beta first go and went to chains for the route to the right, fixed the line next go, fun roof
30
jswan10 said on March 23rd, 2009
The easiest and funnest roof youll ever pull, great route
31
lena_chita said on May 7th, 2012
I was not expecting to find so much sand on the jugs above the roof! I figured that these routes get climbed so often, everything should be scoured clean. :)
32
rjackson said on November 26th, 2012
A little more than a one move wonder, perhaps a bolt's worth of moves at the top. Had to go 'way' right to find a hold I could reach to pull the little roof. The last two bolts need extended draws for the rope to run decent. Not a fan...
33
jenbongo said on November 26th, 2012
The last bolt is clippable from below the roof, but not easily if you're 5'4. It was a fun problem to figure out the roof and last section - which way works best for you?