Ohio Climbing

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bruisebrothers Wall

Return of Manimal


21.
+0
0 votes

Workin' for the Weekend 5.10c (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang in 2004
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Starts on easy slab. Make a couple of long pumpy moves on a small flake feature. Crimp or undercling through a short crux and pull over a large flake to the anchors.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.76 stars (112 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (109 votes)

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Submitted by: cfibbe
Date: May 11th, 2013

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 16th, 2006

Comments

1
ray said on August 29th, 2004
Nice route.
2
Anonymous said on September 22nd, 2004
Cool route. Originally I thought it might be overrated at 11a, but after watching a few other people flail on it, it must just suit my style. Interesting moves!!
3
Joel said on November 15th, 2004
Fun route. I also thought it was more like 10c/d. Return of Manimal (just to the right) is definitely harder.
4
Sco Bro said on March 28th, 2005
Tough little set of moves. Good stuff.
5
weber said on April 21st, 2005
Short crimpy section is definitely the crux. Don't get off route between bolts 3 and 5. Took six trys to redpoint this thing.
6
Smedley said on May 9th, 2005
Nice but a golrified 5.10...Have you guys climbed other 11's at the Red?
7
J-Rock said on May 9th, 2005
No Smedley, none of us have. We've climbed more than 400 routes at the Red and quite a few of them were 5.11's. So Mr. Expert, how many have you climbed?
8
TIT said on June 6th, 2005
one of the best climbs i have done at Muir!!! really fun, my better half thought it was a little reachy, but she is only 4 feet tall..... so she thinks everything is reachy.... just kidding, i would say it would be a little reachy for the ladies, but we both lead it up fine, fun and unique!!! my favorite climb at Bruise Brothers Wall!!!
9
tamara said on July 12th, 2005
9+
10
J-Rock said on August 24th, 2005
There are several different ways to climb this route. You can climb to the left of the bolts, straight up, or to the right of the bolts in several places. The grade will vary anywhere between 5.9-5.11 depending on which path you choose. 10c seems like a good average for the variations.
11
pigsteak said on September 5th, 2005
excellent route..nice job equippers. 10c feels right on.
12
young'n climber said on September 5th, 2005
Hardest one on the wall
13
jlu said on October 17th, 2005
nice fun route. Too bad an "X" marks a potential break-off at the beginning of what could be a great upwards crack.
14
merrick said on October 26th, 2005
great route but that block down low with the x is solid, it shouldn't have an x on it. the route felt about 10a to me.
15
Feanor007 said on June 21st, 2006
cool route, nice jugs when you need them
16
keith_b00ne said on August 30th, 2006
I think 10d is a little over rate. Sent it 1st try. I would think it is a 10a.
17
jordancolburn said on January 13th, 2008
There's no way this thing is 5.11, flashed it on toprope. maybe a 5.10c but i would almost lean towards a pretty easy 10c or 10b.
18
Cleveland said on February 27th, 2008
How many people have to vote on the route grade before it gets changed? I need some more points!
19
Lander said on February 27th, 2008
I think it's just whenever the admins get around to it.
20
SCIN said on February 27th, 2008
Done.
21
rdo'c said on October 28th, 2008
weber is right on about the crux being between the 3rd and 5th bolts but you have to go straight up the route to experience it. If you do bail to the easier sections to the left or right please don't embarrass yourself by logging on and posting that this route is over graded.
22
Barnacle Ben said on October 4th, 2009
I only did this once, so I didn't get a chance to participate in the left/right/center nonsense. But I climbed more or less what I thought was the natural flow of the route, which was often just left or just right of the bolts. I would agree that if you were in the crack to the left of the bolts, you were probably off route. Didn't see much out right. Anyway, I thought it was similar to Rat Stew but with a couple of harder and more interesting moves. I did a gaston to a mantle at around the 4th or 5th bolt. Based on the variety of moves I preferred this one over Rat Stew and felt it was a letter grade or two harder. So yeah, if Rat Stew is 10a, this is 10c. It's all relative.
23
gripster said on November 23rd, 2009
Ok route that is remniscent of it's neighbors but has a more solid crux.
24
Pangea said on January 19th, 2010
Great warm up route; challenging but good rest spots.
25
rjackson said on February 25th, 2012
Beautiful stemming sequence, big fun the whole way up!
26
tpowell said on May 12th, 2012
Great route. Pretty fun, not so technical climbing. I think it's more in the 10b/c range.
27
Chiyram said on October 14th, 2016
What happened to the bolts on this thing? Didn't they use to be farther left? Seems sketchy the way you have to traverse out at the bugle.
28
DrRockso said on October 15th, 2016
I don't find the current bolt placements sketchy at all.