Touch of Grey

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Wall

Dynabolt Gold


6.
+0
0 votes

Bitter Ray of Sunshine 5.10a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Karla Carandang, Jared Hancock in 2004
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start on delicate mantle to a ledge approx 8 ft. left of Dynabolt Gold. Follow the rib to a series of surprisingly good jugs and two-finger pockets. Pull through the tricky roof and jug up the left water groove. Finish on wide crack to clip anchors.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.1 stars (112 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10c (124 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
GWG said on September 6th, 2004
Outstanding climb. Sure to become one of the classics of Muir Valley
2
Gaar said on September 12th, 2004
More like 10b/c
3
said on November 15th, 2004
very soft for the grade
4
said on November 15th, 2004
but fun!
5
J-Rock said on November 24th, 2004
I thought the route might get easier after it got cleaned up a bit. Also, most people climb the route via a different variation. However, the grade was changed to 10d due to consensus.
6
ray said on May 22nd, 2005
Very cool moves. Sweet line.
7
bhuff04 said on June 4th, 2005
very fun... great rests too
8
Wes said on June 19th, 2005
Easy as creature feature. 10a/9+
9
Paul3eb said on June 20th, 2005
watch your rope drag over the roof.. don't be intimidated by the roof. quality climbing and fun holds. go all the way to be sure to check out one of the cooler holds around..
10
jlu said on July 24th, 2005
very fun climb! true 5.10d, no single overly difficult move, one of the best of the red
11
K-Dawg said on September 27th, 2005
Bitter ray of sunshine indeed. As I looked over the roof for my next move, there was the sun making its way across the sky. I wasn't expecting a couple of blind moves. Right place at the right time I guess. Good Route.
12
merrick said on November 3rd, 2005
i think this is the best line on the wall, yes even better than edge-a-sketch. super fun regardless of the grade, pulling through the roof made me laugh. everyone should do this route.
13
Captain Bad Beta said on July 6th, 2007
I really enjoyed this route. However, i was annoyed that someone had ticked all the holds on the top half making it more like a gym climb. Regardless... great climb!
14
anticlmber said on July 7th, 2007
n ot bad, not bad ata all
15
Brentucky said on August 5th, 2007
awesome climb that is very fun and totally worth doing, but definitely low 10's b/c i don't recall a single bad hold anywhere on it.
16
uberwhipper said on August 8th, 2008
I thought this was easy for a 10c, but it was sustained at whatever level for most of the climb. If a true 10c this makes my first.
17
Jollygreen68 said on October 20th, 2008
AWESOME route. Just another great line at the Great wall. Great rock, REALLY interesting moves, somewhat sequenced, a really cool roof move, and a huge sidepull crack to clip the anchors. It felt pretty tough in a few parts and more like a 10d, but I think after doing it a few times, it would be more like a 10c once you know the moves. One of my favorite routes I've ever done at the RRG, so interesting and different.
18
Anonymous said on July 4th, 2011
you people voting 10c-how many actual 10's have you climbed? good 5.9
19
swj said on August 16th, 2011
If it's a 10c, it is the most "stress-free" 10c I've been on.
20
dustonian said on August 16th, 2011
Laughably far from 10c... a good number of 5.8's I've done are harder.
21
Spikeddem said on March 8th, 2012
I agree with the downgrade sentiments. This is like 9/9+/10a or something. There are tons of rests. If this is 9+ or less, then it's the best route under 5.10 that I've climbed at the gorge...really really fun route. If it lasted for 80 feet it'd be a very fantastic route, but it's still got rad movement for such moderate climbing.
22
nik said on May 14th, 2012
another fantastic route at a wall with several good ones. really fun pulling the "roof." also agree that it felt easier than 10c. i would lean towards 10a/b. (come to think of it...this will probably feel easier than dynabolt gold to someone looking for an easy ten lead given the tough 3rd clip on dynabolt)
23
dfspau2 said on June 14th, 2012
no harder than 10a, but an awesome climbing, fun route!
24
Cleveland said on December 3rd, 2012
I am a little confused, if 45>15>10, how do we come up with 10a? I am all for downgrading but this makes no sense at all. If this thing is 10a, Back Door to Paris is 5.9-.
25
Anonymous said on December 3rd, 2012
I imagine he came up with the grade by ignoring the clearly skewed votes and by using his own judgment as well as the judgment of people that commented on the route as opposed to just confirming a hyperinflated grade.
26
nik said on December 3rd, 2012
actually, back door to paris is not a bad comparison for this route. they're both really easy climbing, except for one little crux section. 10a seems fair for both, imo.
27
Cleveland said on December 3rd, 2012
Well if the comments of a few are more important than the consensus of 45 people then by all means downgrade it. However you can not speculate that votes are "clearly skewed" without talking to the 45 people who have voted on the grade. If that is the case then why do we have the voting system at all? 8 people commented and said that it was easier than 10c, if you add those comments to the ten that voted for 5.10a you still come nowhere close to the 45 people who voted for 5.10c. Like I said, I'm all for downgrading it but there has to be some kind of logic behind it. People also left comments saying they thought it was 10c and 10d. What makes those 8 comments and 10 votes for 10a hold more weight than any other persons opinion?
28
Spikeddem said on December 3rd, 2012
(Previous Anon comment was by me) That's just the thing, Cleveland; there doesn't have to be a logic. Ray has ultimate veto power. I think the usefulness of the histogram comes in solely for the point of starting a conversation, but dies thereafter. Why does the importance go away at this point? IMO, a lot of people will just confirm whatever the book says. Example: Magnum Opus.
29
SCIN said on December 3rd, 2012
There are some opinions I really trust and respect. That can outweigh a histogram, yes. Spikeddem is also correct to some extent I think. Also, the ego can be a terrible thing. You can see examples of this with the climbers who voted mid-5.11 on is thing to try and bring the average up.
30
Anonymous said on September 9th, 2013
no harder than 10a. I would even say 5.9. I almost onsighted except for one hang and I am no 10c climber.