Edge-a-Sketch

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Wall

Buccaneer


11.
+0
0 votes

Ohio Arts 5.12a (Sport) **

First Ascent: Josh Thurston, J.J. in 2004
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 3 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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2nd pitch above "Edge-a-Sketch." Continue past the anchors following 3 more bolts up a black slab and over a fantastic overhanging flake feature to another black slab with tiny crimps and slopers.
Descent: Rap from anchors.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.33 stars (12 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (15 votes)

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Submitted by: CRZYFST
Date: Sep 25th, 2017

Comments

1
squeezindlemmon said on September 1st, 2004
This is an open project. Several people have top-roped this route and estimated the grade to be 5.12b. Send it if you want to name it!
2
goodguy said on September 6th, 2004
Really cool finish to an already cool line! How bout, "Ohio Arts" for the upper name! (the company that makes the Etch-A-Scetch).
3
RRO said on June 30th, 2005
Cool finish, wild feature, painful fall. Trying to clip the second bolt on the upper overhanging face is tough when its 95 and the sun is pounding down, I botched it twice and bounced down the upper slab pretty hard. Dont really see a way to avoid it, other than not falling. Still a fun finish.
4
Sco Bro said on November 21st, 2005
Belay from the anchors on Edge-a-Sketch. If you belay from the ground you will not be able to see the climber and the rope stretch guarantees a fall onto the slabby ledge below should they blow the last clip before the anchors.
5
Anonymous said on July 24th, 2006
what shit climbing up top
6
Stewy911 said on July 25th, 2006
i thought the epic hanging belay from the anchors made the climbing up top fun. I enjoyed this climb, a short bouldery easy 12b for ya
7
RRO said on July 25th, 2006
fun features and pretty cool movement. it is short, the fall sucks but its worth doing. been on much much worse. someone prob just got their ass handed to em.
8
512OW said on July 1st, 2007
Otherworldy features. Once the holds are identified, its maybe only 11d.
9
Josephine said on July 13th, 2008
the fall sucks for sure. Sco Bro's comments might be worthwhile adding to the next guidebook.
10
tbwilsonky said on May 19th, 2009
thought it looked like a blown clip at the second would lead to a weird tumble/deck situation on the slab, and...... check. blew it and landed sideways on the slab. the sequence isn't that hard (v3?), but clipping off a flat crimp + rope drag = *I'M OFF!* and then *bounce - skid*. at least that's how it worked out for me on this particular day. that said, the view from the chains is super-rad and the features up top are totally amazing.
11
goodguy said on May 20th, 2009
Instead of using the flat crimp to clip, near your waist there is a horizontal that is a perfect undercling. This makes the clip super chill.
12
Saxman said on May 22nd, 2009
The fall onto the sloping ledge is not bad if the belayer knows to take the rope in a little as you pull the move.
13
Brentucky said on November 12th, 2010
I thought this felt more like 11c after climbing the "11b" Buccaneer. I went ahead and graded it 11d anyway since I prefer to err on the higher side when a potentially not so good fall is involved. That last clip is a little tricky.
14
climb2core said on June 26th, 2011
I didn't think the extension added much.... It felt like a 15 ft climb that had nothing to do with Etch a Sketch. Not really worth it IMO. Walk across the valley to The Solarium if you want to jump on a 12...