Ohio Arts

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Great Wall

La Escalada


12.
+1
1 votes

Buccaneer 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Tim Powers in 2009
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Previously a toprope line is now a bolted line as of 2009.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.42 stars (33 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (44 votes)

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Submitted by: CRZYFST
Date: Sep 25th, 2017

Comments

1
Anonymous said on April 19th, 2005
When will this be bolted?
2
t bone said on April 21st, 2005
It may never be bolted, It is not all that good. Rock quality is much lower than other routes near by. It will remain a top rope route for now.
3
pigsteak said on July 1st, 2009
how the heck did chriss lead this when it has no bolts. I call that padding he spray list.
4
pigsteak said on July 4th, 2009
rock quality is fine. now bolted.
5
Andrew said on July 12th, 2009
Way better than 2 stars, but probably 11a
6
pigsteak said on July 12th, 2009
mark it 11b..I was going from Tim's memory of his TR year's back. I haven't climbed it yet myself. pretty good line though, eh andrew?
7
pawilkes said on July 18th, 2009
This route is 11b for the gorge, but if rated with respect to the other routes on the wall, probably 11c. the crimps are kind of small and a little sharp.
8
blakeleathers said on July 20th, 2009
real fun climb, small holds majority of the route always makes it fun..
9
rdo'c said on September 12th, 2009
After you send the other two 11s on the wall jump on this "11b" for an ego re-adjustment.
10
pigsteak said on November 27th, 2009
got a chance to climb this today..not a bad line after all. agree with pawilkes..crimps a re a bit sharp.
11
jenbongo said on November 1st, 2010
I didn't like the placement of the last bolt. Why is it over a bulge? The bottom biner of my draw was rubbing against the rock. I switched to a sling, but now the sling has some wear. After falling on it twice, I bailed, so there's a quick-link there now. I don't know whether that will help or hurt the next person when they go to clip it.
12
Brentucky said on November 12th, 2010
I thought this route was great, thanks for bolting it piggie. A solid step up from it's neighbors that's for sure. To me it felt similar in difficulty to Ohio Arts, but I think this might actually have been harder.
13
bcombs said on February 3rd, 2012
Felt hard for 11b on the first go. Then it felt harder on the second go because I think I broke a key foot between the last bolt and the anchors. Makes that hard move at the top feel harder. Sorry.
14
Rollo said on April 14th, 2012
No doubt this thing is a hard to onsight for the grade. Second go with the sequence down it feels right on for 11b. Not my style but still liked it alot!
15
Jeff said on June 30th, 2012
Had to work it a bit to figure out beta. Good line!!
16
dustonian said on September 26th, 2012
really fun climbing!
17
Chiyram said on May 19th, 2014
This route gets a lot of crap,but I think it's the best on the wall. Technical climbing and it's about right on for the grade.