Cruisin' for a Bruisin'

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Hideout

Pre-emptive Strike


5.
+0
0 votes

Moots Madness 5.10a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Neal Schlatter in 2004
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Make the reach move below the first bolt and relax the rest of the way to the final overhanging section. May be harder for shorter climbers or easier for taller ones.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Ring anchors
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.16 stars (82 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (71 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
Gaar said on September 12th, 2004
If you dont like crips dont do. Otherwise fun
2
andy_lemon said on October 12th, 2004
Nice three finger crimp 2 inches to the right of the first bolt... makes that move alot better.
3
said on November 8th, 2004
why is the bolt before you pull the small roof/overhang placed to the right and below rather than above it? There are great potential clipping holds and the rock looks solid. That would be a bad fall there with the bolt placed as it is. Fun route, though.
4
J-Rock said on November 8th, 2004
We climbed it several different ways and it made more sense to take it to the right on the large flake feature.
5
J-Rock said on November 8th, 2004
The bolts are fine where they are currently located. Much thought was put into the fall potentials and it is totally safe. If you disagree then don't climb it!
6
chriss said on February 21st, 2005
Definitely not an R rated route.
7
travelinyouth said on March 14th, 2005
Lotsa fun! Crimpy and reachy; short and sweet! We did it a few ways and went right on one of the runs and ran into some of that flaky lichen stuff.
8
J-Rock said on May 8th, 2005
We "fall tested" it 3 times and it was not a bad fall. I also watched two other people take falls there and they were both unscathed and later finished the route.
9
TIT said on June 6th, 2005
Great route! The crimpy moves on it were unexpected at the end of the day. It is great to have such a variety of climbs at Muir. Fun, short, and sweet!
10
jlu said on July 24th, 2005
fun route, maybe a 5.9+ with a 5.10c move at the beginning
11
merrick said on November 3rd, 2005
it is definately shorter if you are short. it was the hardest single move i did the day I climbed it, but fun after that. the tall guy i was climbing with also felt it was harder than 10a.
12
RRO said on November 3rd, 2005
When its the 16th route of the day it felt 10b/c at the start. Would need to get back on as a warm up and see if it feels the same.
13
K-Dawg said on June 29th, 2006
10a long move to the first bolt and 5.9 the rest of the way up
14
ElectricDisciple said on July 22nd, 2006
Fun little climb this one was. I tend to agree with the bolt placements. Seems that the route "should" have gone right mostly, but it wasn't a bad thing Still a good climb.
15
belay slave said on October 3rd, 2006
A 5.9+ route with one move at the bottom...well worth the time.
16
dbarless said on May 21st, 2007
I don't understand why everyone has a problem with bolt placements!!! The people that bolt these lines put a lot of time and energy into bolting the best lines! If you don't like the looks of it, bail or don't climb it at all!!!!! I have seen plenty of people fall from the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th bolts, and they were all clean and safe. A long move to start, then turns into a crimpy jug-haul. A fun way to start or finish the day....
17
Captain Bad Beta said on July 6th, 2007
Fun route. The only hard move is right at the beginning and would be a bit reachy for some in my opinion. Pull the move and then cruise the rest of the route. It was fun.
18
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
Very difficult tiny crimpy start to large easy holds to the top. The beginning is very tough for the rating. After the first 10' or so of tiny crimps, it's more of a low .10 or .9+. Pretty good route.
19
Josephine said on August 24th, 2008
took me a few tries to get the opening move. if you're not solid at the grade a stick clip for the first bolt would be a wise idea. was a fun route
20
jswan10 said on March 23rd, 2009
Great short route, fun start