Shock and Awe

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Hideout

All Mixed Up


8.
+2
2 votes

Boltergeist 5.10a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Tim Yates, Rick Weber in 2004
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 13 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start on positive crimps and follow large ledges up the never-ending slab with plentiful rests and enjoyable moves. Great exposure! The view from the top is well worth it - Boltergeist is more than just a route, it's an experience!
Moves: Slab
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.25 stars (159 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (140 votes)

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Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Apr 25th, 2014

Submitted by: agentWTF
Date: May 2nd, 2009

Submitted by: p0bray01
Date: Feb 5th, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
J-Rock said on August 24th, 2004
It is also possible (and enjoyable) to belay from the large ledge below the top anchors. Excellent photo opportunities.
2
ray said on September 6th, 2004
Amazing route. Just plain fun.
3
Artsay said on September 6th, 2004
This is an excellent, classic, first 5.10 sport lead. Well bolted and super fun.
4
Gaar said on September 12th, 2004
14 Bolts plus anchors
5
J-Rock said on September 13th, 2004
13 bolts plus anchors (unless someone added one after it was bolted)
6
said on November 8th, 2004
this doesn't look very inspiring from the ground, but is SUPER fun!
7
rhunt said on November 16th, 2004
Wow that was probably the coolest bolted slab I have ever climbed at the Red. Ultra Classic!
8
diggum said on February 11th, 2005
It's lookin at me.
9
weber said on February 12th, 2005
My favorite route in the Valley. Be sure to take 15 draws! And, remember to take a minute to look out over the Valley and enjoy the view from the top.
10
bhuff04 said on April 18th, 2005
Jesus, I climbed this route wet... sketchy AND fun!
11
squeezindlemmon said on May 31st, 2005
Fun, fun and SUPER FUN all the way!
12
bhuff04 said on June 4th, 2005
Belay on the top and you can get rid or a LOT of drag.
13
TIT said on June 6th, 2005
wow, wow, wow, this climb was incredibly fun!!! techinical and slaby and long, for now this is my favorite climb in MUIR. i thought it was very sustained almost all the way up. great view from the top and YES you can do this climb on a 60 meter rope no problem. the anchor would be a great place to belay from, large open slab with a great view to enjoy while belaying the second. definate 5 star!!!
14
toddc said on June 17th, 2005
Great job team Muir. The Red needs more routes like this one.
15
jlu said on July 24th, 2005
very fun route! lots of little technical moves along the way, plus what a view! make sure to take lots of draws with you
16
K-Dawg said on September 27th, 2005
Its the never ending route. Every time you look up, there are two more bolts. A slab lovers dream. Good Job.
17
Captain Bad Beta said on September 30th, 2005
Seriously, they should have calle this route The Never Ending Slab... bring the long rope. Tons of fun, it's slabby so the holds are smaller but you can stand up and rest on most of them. Only remember one spot that was thin; hence the 10b rating. Great view, lots of fun.
18
pigsteak said on February 25th, 2006
cheers to the developers. one of the top ten at muir.
19
p0bray01 said on June 7th, 2006
Loved this route....it was a little tricky to get started as (to me) it was the most thing part....the top= pure slab! With a little crack move for flare! I wanted to belay my girl up from the anchors but wasps swarmed me! Not fun! Other than that....this route ROCKS!
20
Feanor007 said on June 14th, 2006
coolest route i've ever done, super fun to belay from the top. did it ; as the sun went down yesterday, beautiful.
21
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
Very slabby with HUGE amounts of rope drag. I think you'll need a 60 meter rope for this one. Belaying from the top is a good idea! Lots of clips so you could afford to skip a few.
22
Feanor007 said on June 28th, 2006
extend your draws right, belay the second from the top, rap down, and rope drag is a non factor
23
ewaaser said on July 22nd, 2006
Excellent route - now one of my favorites! Very well protected. I thought the start was the most difficult section. Super view from the top.
24
usmcmars said on June 8th, 2007
Led it and loved it! Interesting crimpy start for a shortie, but doable. Very fun.........very, very fun!
25
gripster said on April 3rd, 2008
Over-bolted but awesome
26
Buzz said on April 9th, 2008
I loved this route. It has a great mix of all different kinds of moves.
27
edmclen said on May 9th, 2008
Fun, thought-provoking moves near the bottom
28
MSMITH said on May 26th, 2008
Don't See what the big hype about this one is. 3 stars. Though I did enjoy the topout section to the anchors.
29
tbwilsonky said on July 13th, 2008
climb, stand, climb, stand, etc.. cool but not awe inspiring.
30
Josephine said on August 24th, 2008
it's nice that there were lots of places to rest along the way. great route
31
rjackson said on October 22nd, 2008
It keeps going and going and going...
32
unknown climber said on December 20th, 2008
The funniest slab and longest route I've climbed a must if in the area and its not packed
33
agentWTF said on May 2nd, 2009
Belay from the top.
34
saxfiend said on October 27th, 2009
Not my hardest onsight, but certainly the longest and one of the most fun!
35
Travlinman said on October 9th, 2011
Think this one is a bit overrated, in my opinion the 3 routes to the left blow this thing out of the water. I guess if you are looking for something with extensive protection and is slabalicious, this one is for you.
36
climb2core said on October 28th, 2012
Doesn't live up to the hype. Do the neighbor to the left.
37
Daeris said on July 7th, 2014
I'm just getting into 5.10 sport routes outdoors, and this one currently takes the lead as my favorite. The opening is very crimpy, but there are several options, so feel out the crimps that work best for you. Stick with it, and once you're past the open, the route has a great mix of moves. If you're top-roping this with a belayer on the bottom, there will be some rope drag, so make sure to stay aware of where your rope is. Once you complete the 100ft journey, soak in the view at the ledge on the top!
38
Anonymous said on July 14th, 2014
After visiting the hideout many times, but never having the chance to get on boltergeist due to wet rock or 8 people from hoosier heights in line to climb it I was really excited to finally get on it this past weekend. I enjoy long routes and slab, but man is this climb the most overrated thing I've been on in the red. It's worth climbing, but definitely doesn't deserve the hype.
39
Anonymous said on July 14th, 2014
sorry that your feelings got hurt
40
climb2core said on July 14th, 2014
Do Pre-emptive Strike. If the gumby tour bus is getting to the crag before you on jumping on your line of choice, it is your fault.
41
Anonymous said on July 17th, 2014
I called the whambulance, but they never came to get me :'(
42
eduard said on October 27th, 2014
Not sure what the hype was about. Found the route to be really boring, especially for the last 5-6 bolts. The view from the top on the other hand is spectacular, especially with fall colors.
43
tazunemono said on July 31st, 2017
Where is the 5.10 crux? I think I just reached past it. 5.9+ on a hot summer day.
44
Anonymous said on July 31st, 2017
Omgosh you so strong!
45
Anonymous said on July 31st, 2017
i've just never understood people who think they can clearly, totally, unequivocally differentiate a 5.9 from a 10.a. or an 11.a from an 11.b or whatever. there's so much variation in each grade that there are a ton of routes that will feel "misgraded" to you personally based on when you climbed it, body type, climbing strengths, etc. no sense in getting worked up about minor discrepancies. and that's not even to consider the fact that many people will disagree with you.