Redeye Brew

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bruisebrothers Wall

Tomthievery (aka The Sultan Returns)


5.
+2
2 votes

Flutterby Blue 5.9 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mike Susko, Stacia Susko, J.J. in 2004
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the short sport route on the arete to the left of Tomthievery with a bouldery start. It is the leftmost route at Rebel. There is also a harder direct start for an added challenge.
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.1 stars (110 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (99 votes)

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Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jun 20th, 2011

Submitted by: dkjazz
Date: Jun 14th, 2009

Submitted by: dkjazz
Date: Jun 14th, 2009

Submitted by: dkjazz
Date: Jun 14th, 2009

Submitted by: agentWTF
Date: May 2nd, 2009

Comments

1
J-Rock said on September 13th, 2004
Both starts are lots of fun.
2
Anonymous said on September 22nd, 2004
The start is by far the crux of the problem. If you are a 10a climber and can manage to get to the first bolt, you should have no problems sending the problem. The alternate starts makes for a very interesting boulder problem.
3
Sco Bro said on February 28th, 2005
I did the direct start, tricky. I'm not sure what the grade would be on that, but it's definitely harder than 9+, the rest is probably easy 5.9.
4
diggum said on March 7th, 2005
Try the not so direct, back-bend, yoga, Dipsi style start.
5
John E said on March 28th, 2005
Are you supposed to stay to the right or the left of the arete? I stayed to the left after the start and it was pretty easy. An average climb at best.
6
Anonymous said on April 7th, 2005
Climbed on April 6 and the hangers on the anchors were spinners. Someone may want to tighten them up a bit.
7
Bashie said on April 15th, 2005
Fun route.
8
Crankmas said on May 9th, 2005
Saxman tightened the spinner anchor nuts on Derby Day-it will be interesting to see how long they last that way
9
TIT said on June 6th, 2005
the first move is very bouldery and fun, also look for the no hands, double knee bar about half way up, i actually shook out on lead, both hands off at the same time, really fun, definattly worth the struggle at the bottom, i am a trad climber by heart, bouldering is not my strong point, but OH WAIT, i dont think i have a strong point??? great little climb!!!
10
merrick said on November 3rd, 2005
man that start is super fun for 5.9, what a great route.
11
maxclimb11 said on November 9th, 2005
im myself am not much of a fan of this route but that might just be me
12
pigsteak said on May 7th, 2006
super line...
13
p0bray01 said on July 11th, 2006
I have to agree with maxclimb...I was uninspired as I was lowered from the anchors..I mean...Ok...Mantle..bulge...Haul ass...to mantle bulge...blind clip...repeat...Oh well.
14
semeseu said on March 18th, 2007
This is a great route!
15
soccerfast007 said on July 23rd, 2007
don't go above the anchors and attempt to traverse right from above, it turns to shitty, liken covered slopers, the anchor clip was a bit teste for my liking, i'll be back
16
uberwhipper said on May 15th, 2008
If you go to the left of the arete the climb is much easier as has been said. Otherwise the climb is pretty easy but I thought it was loads of fun just because the shelves were pretty cool. My wife climbed up and layed down in the one before the anchors.
17
andrew.reed said on September 23rd, 2008
fun, liked the pebbles in the rock at bottom
18
Anonymous said on April 14th, 2009
One of my first few outdoor routes. Didn't discover the way up the right side of the arete until a couple of months later. I thought that way was more fun.
19
bcombs said on May 4th, 2009
That is one of the funniest pics I've seen. You own a helmet, why not a stick clip?
20
Barnacle Ben said on May 4th, 2009
The one dude is wearing a climbing helmet; the other dude is wearing a Roman helmet. Discuss.
21
kman154 said on February 21st, 2010
reachy start if you go straight up the bolts. it was fun. i stayed way right of the arete at the top.