A Chip Off the Old Sturnum

This route is located in the Southern Region at Volunteer Wall

Johnny on Roofies


5.
+0
0 votes

Darwin Loves You 5.9+ (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Wes Allen in 2004
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This is the next bolted line 100 feet right of the dihedral. Begin with a reachy start then continue up short but fun face on sidepulls to a time-bomb clipping hold.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
short (2) fun (2) beautiful (1) juggy (1) pumpy (1)
Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

2.95 stars (114 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (109 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Mar 24th, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Mar 24th, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Mar 24th, 2012

Submitted by: Peppermint
Date: Jul 26th, 2010

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 29th, 2007

Submitted by: Major Tom
Date: Apr 1st, 2007

Comments

1
Anonymous said on April 13th, 2005
poorly positioned anchors in bad rock
2
Paul3eb said on May 1st, 2005
not bad but different, especially for a .9. plenty of sidepulls to mix things up. little tricky on which way to head.
3
Pete said on May 2nd, 2005
bouldery start for a 9 if you don't have a long reach, evidently the start holds have broken a bit. the anchor clipping jug seems a bit sketchy. overall, a fun (but short) route.
4
Ascentionist said on November 20th, 2005
I agree with Paul.
5
merrick said on December 2nd, 2005
great route but the anchors could use some maintenance. there are multiple fracture lines on the block.
6
tomdarch said on September 30th, 2006
Well, the big flake thing between the second and third bolts that had 'X's' on it came off. (We were undercaffinated and mistook the remnants of the 'X's' as tick marks.....) Uh, the route is safer now!?!?
7
K-Dawg said on October 23rd, 2006
too bad the route is so short. big holds all the way up. lots of fun for a 5.9
8
Captain Bad Beta said on October 23rd, 2006
This was probalby my favorite 5.9 i've ever done. Huge holds the whole way up. Too bad it wasn't longer!
9
soccerfast007 said on November 7th, 2006
nice holds, a little pumpy for a 9, but i have been known to miss things, some good sidepulls to help you rest before the last 15 feet to the anchors... well worth a go!
10
RRO said on November 7th, 2006
i think a few holds have broken since it was put up. i got back on it a few weeks ago and either i have gotten weaker(which is prob the case) or there were less holds. really fun line and imo its a solid 9 but still a 9. good warmup for the area.
11
Josephine said on June 24th, 2007
this was a bit heady for me - but lots of fun. was a bit confused as when to go right and when to go left. definitely worth doing.
12
The Pirate said on October 4th, 2007
Nice route,but I have to agree that the anchor situation is a TIME BOMB...
13
dbarless said on October 31st, 2007
It seems that if the anchor clipping jug is a time bomb, so are the anchors. There is more than one stress fracture around the anchor bolts, so make sure and have your partner clean this one!
14
jlu said on December 28th, 2007
good short warmup to get ready for the others on this wall. definitely a haven if it's raining too
15
Lander said on January 13th, 2008
Agree with comments above. Suggest adding an anchor bolt with chain up and left about a foot in larger area of unbroken rock. Good climb though.
16
unknown climber said on October 14th, 2008
Very fun fast route, but going to the left made it feel more of a 5.9+.
17
Fartspray said on December 30th, 2008
Anchor = time bomb
18
possum2082 said on August 29th, 2009
dynamic start to a hold that will be breaking soon. pumpy and enjoyable. however, i don't think i'll climb it again b/c of the crack going through the anchor bolts. beware.
19
THB said on May 10th, 2010
good route! fun moves!
20
rjackson said on December 29th, 2012
Crappy start gives it the grade. Just when it starts to get fun, it's over...
21
MrHyde said on November 3rd, 2014
This definitely felt harder than a 5.9+; I notice other people have mentioned that there is the possibility that some of the holds have broken off, and perhaps that is the case. The start wasn't all that difficult, but it was unclear if you were supposed to alternate sides while working your way up the route. I can normally do 5.9s without issue, but this one took me a couple tries, as I got pumped out at the anchors before I could clip, so I had to come down and let a friend try. He ended up not making it, and it was like the second time around was no issue at all. Don't underestimate this one, but it is a pretty decent route.
22
Flunker said on January 29th, 2015
Perhaps an extension heading slightly up and right above the current anchors would be cool? Fun climb.
23
Anonymous said on September 14th, 2016
New anchors and last bolt courtesy of RRG FGI & Access Fund
24
Rx2Climb said on October 1st, 2016
Fun short route. Not even close to 50 ft.
25
KhaoticKlimber said on October 9th, 2016
Very pumpy climb offering some sidepull action. Don't get too cocky on this one. Be sure to hold onto the huge knob to the right of the chains while you're clipping. Excellent opportunity to put on your best monkey impression.