The King Lives On...

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

27 Years of Climbing


22.
+0
0 votes

Johnny B. Good 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Gary Drexler, Tim Powers in 2004
Length: 85ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right from the previous line to locate this route which begins with a bulge leading to a low angled section. Tread lightly low angled rock past thin sidepulls to a severely overhanging section near the top. Crank out the roof on big jugs to a pocketed section just before the anchors.
Descent: Ring Anchors
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.6 stars (105 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (86 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Sep 9th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Sep 9th, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 29th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 29th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Aug 29th, 2012

Submitted by: jfc1005
Date: Jan 29th, 2011

Submitted by: Koebs
Date: Sep 15th, 2010

Submitted by: Major Tom
Date: Jun 17th, 2007

Submitted by: Major Tom
Date: Jun 17th, 2007

Submitted by: Major Tom
Date: Jun 17th, 2007

Comments

1
Gaar said on May 27th, 2005
shitty start but GREAT finish
2
sigs2001 said on June 2nd, 2005
Watch for loose shit at the top. A guy went out left too far and pulled a basketball sized boulder off it....just heads up. Pretty fun route though.
3
Anonymous said on June 2nd, 2005
Thats what you get for climbing off route!
4
Wes said on August 13th, 2005
Very cool route once you get past the start!
5
pigsteak said on August 28th, 2005
agree with all...suffering through the start is worth the time. the slab and steep section are pleasant.
6
Huggybone said on November 26th, 2006
Also quite clean now.
7
Meadows said on May 27th, 2007
Did this route for the first time today - deserves more than 2 stars.
8
anticlmber said on June 1st, 2007
not a bad route. clipping the anchors is piss though.
9
Anonymous said on September 9th, 2007
Incredible footwork in Major Tom's Pictures of the route.........uhhhh.jerry ?
10
jlu said on November 21st, 2007
Very fun climb, 45feet of 5.7 followed by a pumpy 5.10d-5.11a overhung face to the end
11
Lander said on June 11th, 2008
tough anchor clip.
12
FujManiac said on November 26th, 2008
easy climbing to tough pumpy overhanging section. Really fun!
13
mpittdawg said on June 10th, 2009
extremely underrated route. Tons of fun!
14
yarrrrbian said on March 15th, 2011
Easy climbing till the roof. Short over-hung section with a sketch anchor clip (for an 11a).
15
nik said on May 8th, 2012
really easy climbing down low to 3 bolts worth of really overhung jug hauling (well, maye one non-jug in there, depending on your perspective of what constitutes a jug). save a little juice for the anchor clip!
16
Josephine said on June 12th, 2012
Found a great left hand w/thumb catch to clip the anchors from. Had to hang up there and look for it for a bit though. If 11a is tough for you, have your partner hang the draws!
17
swj said on August 21st, 2012
This was so much fun! Rocked a nice big move heading up to a jug in the middle of the roof section, and cranked to the anchors. Only to get there and have a tough time finding a relaxed clipping stance. A few feet of pumpy climbing + bent arm clip = 20 foot whipper.... Loved it though! Got back up there and clipped the anchors but it still was awkward, I think I am missing some key beta.
18
Anonymous said on September 15th, 2014
Anchors are bad. The right bolt is loose, left hanger spun when weighted. Climbed 9/14/14
19
Anonymous said on September 16th, 2014
https://www.facebook.com/notes/rrg-fixed-gear-ethics-initiative/how-to-report-bad-bolts/352764838223190