Velveteen

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Sunnyside

Velvet Revolution


13.
+0
0 votes

Kokopeli's Dream 5.9 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, J.J. in 2005
Length: 40ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
This sport route climbs the pinnacle. It begins as a technical slab and angles up and left to the arete. Balance on up with some underclings and then finish by laybacking on the arete. There are also some harder variations that can be top-roped from the anchors.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.08 stars (97 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (87 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Aug 3rd, 2014

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 1st, 2011

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 9th, 2006

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
John E said on April 11th, 2005
The slab portion was pretty dirty. Watch out at the top. There are a lot of loose rocks above the anchors at the very top of the pinnacle.
2
J-Rock said on April 18th, 2005
This route does not top out on the pinnacle.
3
J-Rock said on April 18th, 2005
This route does not top out on the pinnacle.
4
busty said on April 18th, 2005
It does not top out, but the top of the pinnacle is within arm's reach of the anchors. There are loose rocks up there, although one less after it came flying down at me.
5
J-Rock said on April 18th, 2005
Yep, that is part of climbing. It is not possible to eliminate all of the risk, nor would that be much fun.
6
Anonymous said on April 26th, 2005
Why would anyone go past the anchors?
7
john e aragon said on May 13th, 2005
awkward anchor plcement
8
J-Rock said on May 17th, 2005
I didn't like where the anchors were placed either, but there wasn't much choice. If they were placed any higher then rock quality diminished. If they were lower then the route ended too early. It is possible to get a good stance for the anchor clip if you grab the arete out left and bring your right foot up into a hidden pocket.
9
Huggybone said on June 6th, 2005
cool route. Well done.
10
marathonmedic said on July 19th, 2005
Anchor placement is fine. The route can be a little heady and there are multiple, solid stances to clip the anchors from for both tall and short people. Yes, there is some choss on top. As always, when climbing new routes, you HAVE to expect to find some loose rock. Welcome to Muir. It's not 10+ years old and covered with chalk.
11
Joel said on August 1st, 2005
What's the scoop on the second pitch? It looks cool, but frickin' hard.
12
maxclimb11 said on November 9th, 2005
loved this route. im pretty sure i clipped the anchors from the wrong place.
13
Ascentionist said on November 20th, 2005
Its probably better not to get suckered into the chimney. Makes clipping the anchors VERY hard. Stay on the face.
14
jlu said on November 22nd, 2005
pretty tricky climb if you try doing it only across the face.... name is a bit Freudian :)
15
caribe said on May 22nd, 2006
Stay on the face jit is more fun.
16
keith_b00ne said on April 9th, 2007
Fun route. Why go into the chimney? Fairly straight forward if you stay on the face. Anchor placement is fine cliping low or high.
17
dbarless said on October 17th, 2007
I am glad the consensus is that this route was good, I found it tedious and a waste of my time. Definitely better than spending a day at work, though!
18
Buzz said on April 5th, 2008
Didn't like the route.
19
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
Nothing special. Not very interesting or even worth the time to set up the draws, but decent climb for people wanting to get on a short beginner route.
20
B.J. said on May 9th, 2008
Fun route. Wish it were longer.
21
Ploosh said on May 12th, 2008
Stay on the face, I found it rather easy. Watching others clip from the arete seemed way too much work. fun climb, but it was like ordering your favorite dish to find out later it was available on the buffet. Too short!
22
bsuclimb11 said on April 28th, 2009
Not a bad climb, fun feature but stay out of the chimney. It kinda sucks to clean
23
MonkeySpank said on August 3rd, 2009
Need good slab technique for this one.
24
kevin614d said on May 30th, 2011
Overall a fun route with fun moves. The anchors are in a perfect spot. Topping out would be sketchy on choss, but the anchors themselves are fine and the clipping to them is easy considering there is great holds. Only complaint is that its too short.
25
goodtimes said on January 31st, 2012
The top rope variation to the right is a bonus
26
nik said on May 8th, 2012
cool arete action on a unique pinnacle. not a super fun route, but worth doing. if you want a warmup at the wall, though, do machete.
27
rjackson said on July 14th, 2013
Looks simple enough from the ground, but the whole time I was on it I was thinking, "awkward."