So Long Mr. Petey

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Solarium

Urban Voodoo


4.
+0
0 votes

Magnum Opus 5.12a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Tim Powers, Mike Susko in 2005
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next sport route to the right that works up the wall to the right of two large bulges. Fun pocket climbing up a variety of interesting features. Aptly named.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Ring Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.28 stars (99 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (107 votes)

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Submitted by: crackedcoco
Date: Jun 26th, 2017

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jun 26th, 2017

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 23rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Apr 23rd, 2010

Submitted by: SeanStone
Date: Nov 17th, 2009

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 21st, 2006

Comments

1
Bashie said on October 3rd, 2005
Bitchin' route.
2
J-Rock said on October 3rd, 2005
A very flashable 5.12. An easy to read early crux followed by moderate overhanging climbing separated by good rests.
3
Toy said on October 27th, 2005
Pretty cool route. Super fun up top! Giant holds up high.
4
Yasmeen said on April 2nd, 2007
The crux forced me to clip from above the draw and not chalk up as often as I tend to. Excellent route.
5
512OW said on April 23rd, 2007
12a?? If that.
6
weber said on November 14th, 2007
The top anchor system was originally installed with a crusty rope-chewing bulge between the two ring hangers, which were not level with each other and too far apart. On 11-11-07, I removed the left hanger and mounted a new ring hanger level and 12 inches from the right one, and also removed the crusty bulge. The rope now runs textbook clean.
7
Meadows said on November 29th, 2007
Thanks, Weber. I got on it yesterday and it did not chew up my rope.
8
Anonymous said on November 29th, 2007
Removed the crusty bulge?
9
pigsteak said on December 1st, 2007
chipped, edited, chopped, sliced, hammered, drilled, dented,disected....take your pick. this ain't disneyland chief.
10
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2007
Yes it is. And you are mickey mouse.
11
pigsteak said on December 1st, 2007
lol..anonymous joy rider....please pay your admission and enjoy the rides.
12
Anonymous said on December 12th, 2007
climb into the hueco, and play with the spiders, then climb out and pull jugs for twenty feet with spider gack on your hands, then come down and wipe off spider gack.
13
Anonymous said on December 12th, 2007
repeat as necessary?
14
krampus said on November 1st, 2008
Really funclimbing no matter what y ou think its rated. And listening to your heart beat in the no hands hueco is an unexpected suprize
15
tbwilsonky said on June 15th, 2009
thought the heartbeat in pod comment was hyperbole..... it's not. my stomach also growled and it was deafening. really awesome route.
16
said on August 2nd, 2009
Great route!!!!!!!!!!!!had a blast on this thing....... thanks for putting it up!!!!
17
SeanStone said on November 17th, 2009
BEAUTIFUL ROCK!!! That little hueco is probably my favorite no hands rest at the red
18
climb2core said on September 8th, 2010
Stellar Route!!! I would call it 12b if you are climbing in July or August, and 11d in the fall. Either way, super fun!
19
dnietosi said on October 18th, 2010
So now the route grades depend on season? I need to get the fall guidebook then.
20
climb2core said on November 3rd, 2010
Well, just felt much easier doing the crux... throwing to the sloper with a dish at the back was so much easier to stick in the fall compared to July/Aug. But is just because I am weak. Personally, I think most of the routes in the Red go up a grade or two in the summer... but it is all good- makes you stronger for fall!!!
21
DonnyP said on July 12th, 2011
I recommend this route highly to anyone, but especially to those seeking a first 5.12. It has a low crux that is not that hard, followed by a no-hands rest, and it ends with a long and easy jug haul. I personally think it's easy for 5.12a, even in the heat of July and skipping the second no-hands rest in the hueco. Still, the route is high quality and very fun.