Bundle of Joy

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Solarium

Banshee


11.
+1
1 votes

Abiyoyo 5.12b (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Eric Anderson, Mark Strevels in 2005
Length: 95ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Traverse to the right edge of the Solarium wall. Look for two gray Fixe hangers on a ledge above a 25 foot cliff, at the base of the dark orange overhanging wall. Once the belayer is anchored, stick clip the first bolt, or clip by standing on the small rhodo. Climb up and to the right, past 4 bolts, to a well-deserved sit-down rest in the leftmost of two large huecos. Exit the left side of the hueco. Moderate face climbing leads to an obvious crux (V4 boulder problem), followed by 30 feet of pumpy face climbing. The crux may be more difficult (12+/13-?) for shorter climbers (under 5'8"). 60 m rope recommended.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Fixe Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

4.7 stars (64 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12b (59 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: annmaroo
Date: Nov 11th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 23rd, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 23rd, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 23rd, 2011

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 20th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 20th, 2007

Comments

1
Bashie said on May 6th, 2005
Took a while to figure out the crux move. I'd love to see a real climber flash this.
2
Horatio Felacio said on May 23rd, 2005
This route kicks ass!
3
Power2U said on June 30th, 2005
Awesome beautiful orange rock. Like climbing on the Gold Coast only easier;)
4
Toy said on October 3rd, 2005
Stellar route
5
Astroman said on October 21st, 2005
I heard Toy sent this beauty like it was 5.8... Bastard.
6
ninesixfour said on October 26th, 2005
Yes, 5.8 for the Toyboy is pretty accurate. Intermediate, what intermediate? He didn't even use it. Also, the height thing is over-rated. I watched a 5'7" mom who hasn't done 12b in a long time flash this route recently. Wingspan is not necessary.
7
Astroman said on October 27th, 2005
Though still, I don't think ninesixfour will be proposing any down-grading. Certainly nor will I....
8
ray said on February 16th, 2008
Thanks Michelle for figuring this move out!
9
dan4geng said on May 27th, 2008
I'm 5'3'' and 12b feels accurate. But i would say its 12b compared to other 12b's at the Red not the other routes on the wall, which are soft (IMO). Awesome route on great stone.
10
512OW said on June 21st, 2009
Felt easier than the other 12b's on the wall. No trickery, all good holds. 11a to V3 to 11a. That said, really good route.
11
SeanStone said on March 22nd, 2010
BADASS moves separated by bomber rests. Totally WICKED!
12
said on July 11th, 2010
Awesome route!!!! at 5'5 the crux was harder then any other B's ive done.....
13
der uber said on March 3rd, 2011
Dificulty wise, it really does just come down toa short-lived, tricky section. There's intermediates if you need them. The rock from the hueco on is so good. It's a cool route.
14
climb2core said on October 8th, 2012
Cool route. Moderate climbing to the hueco for a no hands rest. Then 10 feet of easy climbing leads to the crux. I felt that it wasn't a gimme after the crux with getting to the next bolt taking some effort. After that, things mellow out to the chains.
15
nik said on May 29th, 2013
crux hanger was spinning freely. reported to team suck (5/29/13).
16
nik said on June 15th, 2013
tightened the crux bolt the other day. seems fine now (though i'm no expert, climb at your own risk, etc.).
17
Proudfeet said on August 18th, 2013
Broke off the small horn at the anchors, still a good clipping hold just to the right of where it was.
18
Aksama said on August 13th, 2014
Definitely didn't feel like 12+/13- as a 5'7" climber. I honestly don't see how being taller would let you reach through the crux. Do taller folks keep left at the little crux split or something? It didn't seem like the holds over there were decent at all. Stellar climbing either way.
19
Anonymous said on August 13th, 2014
i'm about 6'1" and I think the crux was easier for me than for short people. (beta alert) I get the good jug right before the crux, go to a gaston with my right (that shorties use as a left-hand sidepull), get my feet up, turn the jug into an undercling, and do a dynamic-ish move for the good right rail/crimp thing. it's still a hard sequence, but more like 12a hard I think.