Abiyoyo

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Solarium

Helios


12.
+0
0 votes

Banshee 5.11c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Eric Anderson in 2005
Length: 100ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Same start as "Abiyoyo", but head up and right from the first hueco rest. (Head up 4 bolts, then branch right). A tricky crux move leads to a 2nd sit-down rest in a large hueco. Follow large jugs to the top. 60 m rope recommended.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Fixe Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
dihedral (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.63 stars (115 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (93 votes)

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Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Apr 8th, 2015

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Jul 20th, 2014

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: Aug 19th, 2013

Submitted by: MikeWilkinson
Date: May 16th, 2013

Submitted by: Willy
Date: Apr 8th, 2012

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 20th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 20th, 2007

Comments

1
JR said on May 7th, 2005
What is up with all that freakin glue?
2
ray said on May 22nd, 2005
Beautiful line!
3
Anonymous said on May 22nd, 2005
I reinforced a clip hold with 1/2 cup of fiberglass resin. It felt really loose and creaky, and pretty large, so I glued it. I think it's what you use to clip the 4th bolt. No flex now.
4
Gaar said on May 31st, 2005
One of the best looking lines i have ever climbed! It looks even better when your up there!!!
5
haas said on June 3rd, 2005
The reinforced hold down low is still creaking and probably going to still blow eventually. I also exploded the clipping jug on the 7th or 8th bolt
6
Anonymous said on June 17th, 2005
Exploded? Like with DYNOMIGHT!?!
7
Astroman said on September 19th, 2005
Unbelievable route. The upper bit is second to none.
8
merrick said on November 20th, 2005
This is the best route I did on the wall. tricky start, awesome rests, a well defined cool crux and the top was so good i flipped out like a ninja.
9
pigsteak said on March 18th, 2006
top half makes it all worth it....
10
endercore said on May 13th, 2007
this route is so sweet.
11
bcombs said on August 1st, 2007
Serious wasps after the second hueco. It's X'd, so be careful. I tried to climb past with no luck.
12
512OW said on August 1st, 2007
Exploded the clipping jug? Aren't all the holds on the top half of this enormous jugs? I'd guess there are more to clip from...
13
clausti said on March 8th, 2009
The 4th bolt, the last one you clip before you go directly right, is a really long clip. Specifically, so long that, at 5'2", if I had managed to get it hung, it would have been the hardest move on the route by at least two letter grades. Kind of a bummer to blow the onsight on not being ale to clip, since you can't fix the problem by climbing closer to the bolt. Got it on my next go when the draws were hung.
14
512OW said on March 9th, 2009
I've seen several 5'short climbers hang the draws with no problem. Maybe your feet could have been better or you could have climbed above it to clip? I watched a woman today who "couldn't" reach a hold, at her full extension, that my 11 year old daughter has no problem with, even though she's a foot shorter...
15
clausti said on March 9th, 2009
Kris- perhaps eventually I'll be strong enough to hang that draw. But, as I said in my earlier comment, at my height it seems like doing so would very much be the hardest move on the route. Considering that I got all the moves on the route the first time I tried them, but couldn't hang the draw, my conclusion seems to me to be correct. There *are* higher feet than the ones I was using, but to use them, I'd have to bring the clipping hold- downward sloping already- well past lockoff at my shoulder. And the route goes directly, 90-degrees to the right after the clip. So short of skipping it, no, you can't really climb higher to fix the problem. A Kong Frog *might* be long enough to make up the difference; maybe I'll try that if I get on Banshee again. A final point- I don't know you, so I don't really know if this applies to you personally, but it seems to me that average-to-tall men sometimes-to-often sometimes don't distinguish between their 5'6ish female friend (who is short to them) being able to reach a clip and a 5'0 (one my my main climbing partners) or 5'2 (me) person being able to reach a clip.
16
clausti said on March 9th, 2009
Oh, and just to be clear- I don't doubt that you've seen 5'short climbers hang those draws. But my guess would be that .11c isn't gonna be one of the harder routes on their ticklist.
17
SCIN said on March 9th, 2009
My buddy is about 2 1/2 feet tall and managed to get the draw hung. It was his first 5.11c line. He was pretty psyched. He had trouble getting out of the hueco though since he had to jump out and up to reach the holds.
18
512OW said on March 10th, 2009
My main partner is 5'1". When she did this route, she hadn't yet done a 12, so it was near her limit. All I'm saying is that just because you had a hard time, doesn't mean there isn't a better way that you didn't see. Especially when climbing near your limit, there are lots of new moves to learn. Maybe it wasn't a higher foot, but an opposing one, or a toe hook to keep you in. Frankly, I don't even remember going straight to the right on the route...
19
clausti said on March 10th, 2009
I'm not saying it was impossible, just that I found hanging the draw to be harder than any move on the route. And it was kind of a bummer.
20
512OW said on March 10th, 2009
Better get used to it... as the grades get higher it becomes WAY more prevalent. Just part of the game...
21
Lil Josh said on April 16th, 2009
Holy rests!
22
pkananen said on May 26th, 2009
super fun. I didn't find anything that I imagined to be reachy.
23
der uber said on June 18th, 2009
I don't understand why that hold was glued - it's choss, and there's a nice hold a few inches right of it. Fantastic line! Solid for the grade I thought.
24
SeanStone said on November 17th, 2009
This is line is gorgeous! Cool movement too...
25
jlu said on April 26th, 2010
beautiful long exposed line. there is no 11c move on this climb, and turns into 10b after the 2nd hueco. go for the onsight!
26
whatahutch said on October 14th, 2010
Before I put a plea out in the forum I wanted to ask here first. I want to flash this (and a few other things) because I only have one day to climb at the Red this fall. Would some loving soul share some key beta for this before I get there. PM me please.
27
dustonian said on October 14th, 2010
Don't pump out getting to the hueco rest and it's stupid easy from there... staying right helps. Also you may want to clean this on rappel or via toprope... the anchor is a heinous rope-twisting shitshow on this one (been meaning to get out there and add a little chain & quicklinks to it this season but haven't yet... this would be a wonderful donation if you're in the mood!)
28
pawilkes said on October 14th, 2010
It's been years since I was on this last, but I recall that you want to jog right just before the second hueco and then to into it instead of climbing to the left side of it and then stepping over into it. that part was key for me.
29
whatahutch said on October 15th, 2010
I can add a little chain and quick links. No problem. (I will be down on the 30th). How much chain should I bring? How far apart are the anchors?
30
dustonian said on October 15th, 2010
4-5 chain links should be fine + 2 quicklinks... bring a crescent wrench or borrow one from Rick to tighten them down a quarter turn. Thanks!!
31
whatahutch said on October 31st, 2010
I belayed my buddy up this and he added giant quicklinks to it. (It was my hardware). I brought chain too, but I brought two little links that I use as bail links and two giants. I felt more comfortable just having the big bombers on it sans chains and little ones. The next time I am down there and I have more endurance then I will add two or four more big giants to this route.
32
Dman said on November 9th, 2010
great route loved the two sit down rests
33
dustonian said on April 15th, 2011
Big thanks for the hardware whatahutch, this classic is a lot more rope-friendly now.
34
climb2core said on September 6th, 2011
Awesome line. I am curious why everyone thinks the top 1/2 makes the climb? Just a pretty routine jug haul at that point... Albeit on awesome rock with a great view. To me the fun of the climb was the movements from the ground to the second hueco. Felt soft for 11c as I was on Bandolier the day before which seemed harder IMO.
35
Willy said on April 8th, 2012
Felt soft for me as well. Super fun climb on gorgeous rock though!
36
Rollo said on April 15th, 2012
Well Bandolier was harder than Centerfire for me but I don't think those grades will be reversed any time soon.
37
taurusclimber said on May 28th, 2012
My friend was attacked by 2 or 3 yellow jackets last weekend midway up the top half of the route, where the jugs are. Watch out for the nest. .
38
taurusclimber said on July 1st, 2012
Yea. Now it's a wasp nest. Stung on the ear yesterday. Not a summer route apparently.
39
Cromper said on September 24th, 2012
New belay anchors on this guy.
40
eduard said on May 18th, 2015
Second hueco is made for sitting, taking off shoes and enjoying the view. It's also very relaxing to know that you'll send the route if you've gotten that far.
41
lil_reggie said on November 20th, 2016
use the gimpcrimp undercling chossblock to avoid the crux all together.