Treetop Terror

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Stadium

Environmental Imperialism


17.
+0
0 votes

Areterection 5.11c (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, J.J., Gregg Purnell in 2005
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the obvious and aesthetic arete. Although the climbing is better in the beginning left of the arete, it's a bit more mellow on the right side.
Moves: Bouldery or Technical
Descent: Ring Anchors under roof
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:
adventerous (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.16 stars (31 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11c (32 votes)

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Submitted by: kwagner059
Date: Nov 25th, 2012

Submitted by: AndrewSabula
Date: Nov 19th, 2012

Submitted by: Cromlech
Date: Apr 24th, 2006

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Feb 22nd, 2006

Comments

1
dlewis101 said on June 6th, 2005
Just did this route. Nice line but a bit dirty. Um, actually the top was like a dirt ramp, which made going to the anchors drrty south scary. Anyway, this is a way cool line, and when clean is well worth doing.
2
J-Rock said on June 6th, 2005
Yeah, it does need some more cleaning at the top. I went back to clean it a few weeks ago, but the route was wet at the time and I never got back to it. Sorry about that.
3
J-Rock said on November 1st, 2005
I was just informed that this route had a red tag on it. I don't know who put it there or why, but ignore it because this route was done months ago and it is open.
4
J-Rock said on January 9th, 2006
I scrubbed the top of this route with a wire brush so the finish probably won't be so scary anymore.
5
Sco Bro said on March 8th, 2006
There's a fairly large detached rock just to the right of the anchors, just across the crack. The kind you would be tempted to step on to clean the anchors, don't do it. I think I could have knocked it off, but was concerned that it would roll down and tear up my rope. You can clip and clean the anchors without crossing the crack and stepping on the boulder of death.
6
J-Rock said on April 24th, 2006
I knocked that block of the last time I was there (after Mar 8th, 2006). It was pretty cool. Safer now.
7
JeremiahO said on April 27th, 2006
One of the more tec. 5.11 routes ive been on. Over all a nice climb.
8
MOB said on November 26th, 2007
this is an awesome route, 5 stars.
9
heavyc said on April 29th, 2008
nice line, for what I thought was the crux I stayed to the right of the arete but later saw some chalk to the left, how do most climb this?
10
jmeiners said on April 30th, 2008
I stayed to the right of the arete for the lower crux section. It seemed to me to be easier than left of the arete. I was also wondering how difficult it is to climb left of the arete.
11
krampus said on March 25th, 2010
I would say that you are really cheating yourself if you stay to the right of the arete. This rout is awesome, very spicey and fun. Be sure to get on it if just the top is wet because it forces a really cool finish without changing the grade.
12
dustonian said on September 30th, 2012
killer arete!
13
Power2U said on October 14th, 2012
Straight out of Smith Rock, fun first 25 feet that takes some work! No jug haul'n here ;-)
14
Willy said on November 19th, 2012
Hard to call it 11c staying right of the arete. Definitely much much easier this way
15
goodtimes said on November 25th, 2012
unique climb. stay left of the arete for some exciting movement..
16
J-Ru said on October 19th, 2015
Even on the left side of the areté there are a couple of variations. If you use the seam on the left of the bolts and transition to the areté at the second bolt it is much easier than using the edge of the areté the entire way. Maybe 11a/b vs. 11c/d.
17
Ryanwsu4 said on October 19th, 2015
just browsing routes to explore, first route I've seen where perspective grade has ran from 10d-12b