Primordial Dissonance

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Sunbeam Buttress

Directed Panspermia


7.
-1
1 votes

Where's My Chisel 5.9 (Sport)

First Ascent: Rizzo in 2005
Length: 35ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Routes 7-11 can be found by walking left along the cliff for ~100 feet from "Sunbeam" and "Moonshine". Go slightly downhill and continue past a green pinnacle until you encounter a short slabby sport route on the left.
Descent: Ring anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

1.73 stars (22 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (17 votes)

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Comments

1
Andrew said on July 24th, 2005
WTF??
2
hoss said on August 22nd, 2005
criznap
3
Stewy911 said on September 18th, 2005
SCO, Dking and myself all sent this with out using that shitty ass bolted hold. WTF!!! prob goes 11a/b
4
J-Rock said on September 19th, 2005
I didn't use the bolted on hold either. We're not sure where that came from.
5
Sco Bro said on September 19th, 2005
Just say no to boted on holds! Do it without the add on and it goes 5.11a-ish and its called No Strap-Ons in my Gorge.
6
Green3 said on October 17th, 2005
Somebody take that thing off then
7
Green3 said on October 17th, 2005
Somebody take that thing off then
8
J-Rock said on October 17th, 2005
That hold was removed several weeks ago.
9
Brentucky said on November 11th, 2007
i haven't climbed enough to officially call out a 5.11, but I think this may be one as this thing kicked me off twice and my 3rd attempt was a prayer with a 1.5 finger sidepull, a one finger mantle, and what I consider to be some nice high stepping (my buddy did it differently)!!! exciting one-move wonder preceded and followed by very casual climbing! oh yeah, i also got to see my 5.12 climbing buddy "try" to climb it in boots b/c we thought it looked easy from the ground; he had to come down and put on his climbing shoes :-)
10
bcombs said on November 12th, 2007
Not classic
11
Rollo said on April 21st, 2008
Worst route I've been on. How does this have 2 and a half stars, seriously?
12
512OW said on July 6th, 2008
Haha... I have to weigh in. 11a is a ridiculous grade for this. 9+ at the most. Whats funny to me is how everybody hates it because they had a hard time with the one move. Yes, its a silly route, but obviously you could learn from it....
13
thurnauer said on May 26th, 2009
still don't enjoy this route at all, got suckered into climbing it again. easy 5.9ish moves at bottom and top with the one stupid move in the middle that is simply a height based move. short people will find this more annoying than everyone else. so many other great routes on this wall.
14
cliftongifford said on July 12th, 2009
NOT A 5.9! Goes at the very least 11a. I'm 6' and couldn't do the middle move... at all... maybe 11c or harder one move wonder.
15
Anonymous said on July 23rd, 2009
Cliftongifford is not 6'. He's a 5'10'er
16
Spikeddem said on March 10th, 2012
I would say this is (very) height-dependent, but the hard moves that are added for shorter folk (average height too, probably) are honestly a bonus. They're the best moves on the route--easily. I think some people just need to get their slab on more often. 10b? 10c? If you can reach the better holds then 5.9 is probably right. Maybe soft then. Without them I might suggest like 10b?
17
DrRockso said on December 23rd, 2016
I've climbed some turds but this one might take the cake, the one move wonder goes from impossible to a 10 move with some footwork beta.