Mercenary of the Mandarin Chicken

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Practice Wall

Smear Tactics


19.
+0
0 votes

Beta Spewer 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, Skip Wolfe, Mark Ryan in 2005
Length: 20ft
Bolts: 2 (report bad bolts/anchors)

Click for more images
Around the corner to the right is this short overhanging face. The climbing is good and better than it looks. If only it were taller.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: 2 bolt anchor
Stays Dry: Stays dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

Add / Edit Tags

Route Spray
Show Project
Quality Consensus
 

3.47 stars (78 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (66 votes)

You must login to save your input!
stars
grade
attempts
+
-
spray
+ add
project
+ add

Charts

Photos


Submitted by: djsky24
Date: Jul 17th, 2012

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 31st, 2010

Submitted by: lafinca
Date: Apr 29th, 2009

Comments

1
J-Rock said on September 8th, 2005
Fun climbing, but it ends way too soon!
2
Yasmeen said on March 12th, 2006
Flows really well-- fun sequence!
3
bryanboonern said on July 3rd, 2006
VERY FUN! The moves are 10c. The length may be why it gets 10b. You can easily stick clip the second bolt if you want to give it a go and this is at or above your limit. Would be a good one to project.
4
bazoqop said on July 9th, 2006
If highballing wasn't a no-no at Muir you could do this with a couple of pads and a good spotter or two. Almost like a easy-moderate boulder problem. Way fun.
5
dbarless said on October 3rd, 2007
too bad it ends so soon!!! it flows well, the moves are nice, a good climb...pity it's so short...
6
merrick said on October 15th, 2007
Think v1 not 10b with a couple clips along the way. it will feel easier then. super fun and it is great to get some steeper climbing in after all the slabilicious routes.
7
The Dude of Life said on November 15th, 2007
Super fun with nice flowing moves. Good route.
8
Buster said on January 11th, 2008
I wonder if you pile Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, Skip Wolfe, and Mark Ryan on each other's shoulders, could they tag the anchor? Oops... I mean great route, nice flow, awesome job!
9
ashtray said on January 12th, 2008
Buster, by this standard how many bolts would that 35 foot boulder problem "the doug reed toprope" at the Bald have? Remember, we used to huck laps on it and it is only V5ish, but now i am not so sure. one of those holds could break, and golly gee that is a long way up.
10
jordancolburn said on January 13th, 2008
Good one to break in to mid 10 leading on, easy falls, not likely to deck or fall and hurt yourself on the wall.
11
tomdarch said on March 6th, 2008
Fun stuff!
12
Anonymous said on April 4th, 2008
real crap
13
uberwhipper said on May 15th, 2008
Everybody says the climb kinda flows, but it felt all wrong to me. Must be why I had to try it 5 times
14
waddle77 said on July 21st, 2008
A lot of fun. Way too short.
15
anticlmber said on May 16th, 2013
not too shabby.