Back To The Earth

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Sunnyside

Machete


8.
+0
0 votes

Virgin Bolter Tag Team 5.10b (Sport) **

First Ascent: Jared Hancock, Mike Hatchett, Mark Ryan, Skip Wolfe in 2005
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Climb out the short roof 15 feet left of "Machete" then cruise up moderate pocketed terrain to a steeper, but extremely juggy, finish. Much better than it looks. This route still needs some more cleaning.
Descent: 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks
Stays Dry: Light rain
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.66 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (49 votes)

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Submitted by: gladhander
Date: May 21st, 2006

Comments

1
J-Rock said on July 25th, 2005
Three different guys drilled and placed their first bolts on this climb, hence the name.
2
Joel said on August 1st, 2005
Cool route. Definitely better than it looks.
3
Stewy911 said on August 26th, 2005
hard opening moves for a 10a then easy climbing to the top. def. a fun boulder problem, kinda powerful.
4
TIT said on September 26th, 2005
very interesting start, the overhang is tricky but do-able, almost had to spot our rope gun friend as he went father right at the overhang than he had to and turned the climb into a 5:12.... very fun climb, does need some more cleaning.
5
jlu said on November 22nd, 2005
one-move wonder at the tricky beginning... very dirty route
6
Josephine said on June 3rd, 2007
10a? i thought the opening moves were MUCH harder than 10a. maybe there was some key hold that broke? looks like several broken holds @ the bottom. it's VERY, VERY, VERY, dirty. good luck leading this is you're just starting 10's.
7
B.J. said on May 9th, 2008
Agreed. The start seemed harder than 10a. We started on the right and worked left and that felt much burlier than 10a. Maybe starting from the left is easier? Either way, pulling over the roof is still harder than 10a. The rest is easy.
8
Danny said on June 20th, 2008
Great start. The start has to be 10c.
9
bsuclimb11 said on April 28th, 2009
It was an alright climb but machete was alot more fun. If you like bouldery climbs then you will love the start, powerful move. My buddy cleaned the route by avoiding the roof and going right, it was tougher for me but easier for him because of his long reach.
10
ahab said on May 19th, 2009
felt 10a once the magic hold was found. regardless of the grade, it’s not a very good route in comparison to its neighbors.
11
anticlmber said on October 15th, 2009
not bad