Let's Get Drunk and Think About It

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

Brown Eyed Girl


18.
+2
2 votes

Cheaper Than a Movie 5.8 (Trad) *****

First Ascent: Matt Tackett, Jason Haas in 2005
Length: 100ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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Just right of Let?s Get Drunk is a right arching crack. Climb the crack to the top.
Tying a knot at the end of your rope is recommended.
Moves: Crack
Descent: Rap from anchors. (60m rope required)
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
dihedral (1) classic (1) beautiful (1) long (1) fun (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.68 stars (80 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (54 votes)

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Submitted by: caribe
Date: Sep 19th, 2011

Submitted by: possum2082
Date: Dec 6th, 2009

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 28th, 2007

Comments

1
RRO said on August 9th, 2005
Anchors will be added soon. Great climbing and pretty sustained for the grade.
2
RRO said on August 26th, 2005
Anchors have been added.
3
RRO said on September 3rd, 2005
Bring 60 meter cord.
4
merrick said on November 8th, 2005
great route, one of the longest cracks in the red!!!! it needs just a few more ascents to to fully clean up and then it will be a classic!!!!
5
Don McGlone said on November 28th, 2005
Excellent route! One of the best at it's grade in the Red that I know of. Go do this route!
6
Sco Bro said on February 27th, 2006
Fun route and a lot longer than the 75 feet listed on the online guide book. With a 60m rope you'll have to belay up your second and then rap from the anchors. Otherwise an inattentive belayer will run out of rope and you'll take a long fall that's sure to ruin the rest of the day.
7
RRO said on February 27th, 2006
You can TR the route from the ground with a 60, we have a a few times. I would def tie a knot at the end. I put a note in the comments a little while back. Can someone add the note on the route description ?
8
Wes said on February 27th, 2006
Are the changes correct?
9
RRO said on February 27th, 2006
Maybe even something saying that a 60 is pushing it and a knot needs to be tied in the end. Thanks Wes.
10
ynot said on November 5th, 2006
Awesome route! Take doubles and triples in the fingers and smaller size,and its not obvious from the ground but a set up to #4 . Belay from the ledge at the start and tie knots in the end to lower. A 60 just was enough. Yup, I 86ed the thorn bush and took the whipper for it. it's much better now.
11
allah said on November 27th, 2006
really fun route makes me want to climb more trad routes.
12
Anonymous said on December 30th, 2006
The top of the route (going to the anchors) gets wet after heavy rain, but good feet and the angle doesn't increase the grade.
13
pigsteak said on April 30th, 2007
if you MUST trad climb at the Red, then this should be on your tick list....
14
TIT said on July 3rd, 2007
very fun route, the middle section is tougher than it appears, i took a fall when i slipped off the slick slabby layback just over the mini roof! takes very good pro, one of the best moderate trad climbs in southern region!!
15
rjackson said on May 31st, 2009
Pay attention to all the above...
16
CLIMBTRAD said on November 14th, 2009
geat route great jams great laybacks to a cool hanging belay
17
possum2082 said on November 29th, 2009
i thought the hardest part was around the 1st 15 ft and transitioning into the layback. def need 60m.
18
kman154 said on November 30th, 2009
Good climb. lots of good feet. I could have gone a bit faster, I really took my time for some reason after the lay back.
19
dustonian said on December 8th, 2009
best in the Red??
20
indiedoe said on October 19th, 2010
No crack technique, No problem. If you only know how to layback, this is the route for you. I lead it when I had just started leading trad and the only technique in my arsenal for liebacking It offers plenty of good footholds at the top to lay it back and place gear. . It is sustained, but FUN, loads of fun.
21
michaelarmand said on November 12th, 2010
This climb has its own anchors? I thought it did but I could not find them - I ended up traversing at the top to the anchors on Bessie.
22
Anonymous said on June 20th, 2012
i share the same doubts about the anchors on this and think i used Bessie's as well (?) cause you pass a set that must be BrownEG and 75 on BlueEG wouldn't be all the way at the top where the anchors i used were and then a 60m rope just barely gets you down.
23
Anonymous said on June 20th, 2012
ahh ha. those are the anchors? soo, climb ~90 feet then traverse rightward about 20 feet to anchors? 60 METER ROPE REQUIRED.
24
SCIN said on June 21st, 2012
Do people still use 50 meter ropes?
25
Anonymous said on June 21st, 2012
do they still sell them?
26
RRO said on June 22nd, 2012
Bessie and ctm share anchors. It used to top out right there. 60m reaches fine.
27
ajCSU said on March 30th, 2017
Top was ridiculously wet and didnt realize it from the ground. Couldn't get a hand jam, layback or anything to work and took a fall or two. Cams wouldn't hold once it was wet and slid right out, so did the traverse to anchors to my right and holy fuck was that hard to clean. Not to mention swung hard twice and fucked my finger up good on the rock. Definitely not a route to do when wet. Will have to go back when its nice out for a few days and finish the route. Used alot of .4, .75, 1 and one or two 2s/3s. Few tricams in horizontals too, a red and a blue/navy
28
DrRockso said on March 30th, 2017
Have climbed the top while wet as well, adds a bit of spice to the slab for sure! In regards to it being a pain to clean, this one if best cleaned by the follower. This is a nice one to belay from the anchors, enjoy the view at the top with your partner, then enjoy the nice 90 foot rappel, tie knots in the ends of your rap lines.
29
Anonymous said on March 30th, 2017
Thanks coach
30
climbhigh said on March 31st, 2017
Worthless route story....The ladies used to let Jason and I go out a few times a week while they would go to town and do their thing. After he followed up we sat up top forever , enjoying the view, thinking how we would be rrg heros and shrines would be built for conquering such a ground breaking scramble and obviously staying as safe as humanely possible. I looked over at him and said, this is cheaper than a movie, and it stuck.....miss those bushwhacking days more and more, so may great route names that bring back more memories than the actual scrambles do.
31
Anonymous said on March 31st, 2017
Was that before or after you made sweet love?
32
climbhigh said on March 31st, 2017
during. though the following dr's appointments were not cheaper than a movie.