Johnny B. Good

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Closed Project


23.
+2
2 votes

27 Years of Climbing 5.8 (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Alex Yeakley
Length: 65ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The next bolted line to the right of JohnnyB. Good. Climb through a low angled face to an interesting feature just before an overhang. Desperado past the feature then pull through large pockets in the overhang to reach the anchors.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
beautiful (1) pockets (1) classic (1) juggy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.44 stars (216 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (172 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: nrd2052
Date: Apr 4th, 2011

Submitted by: pixelface
Date: Mar 31st, 2011

Submitted by: pschu7
Date: Mar 28th, 2010

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Sep 10th, 2009

Submitted by: Myke Dronez
Date: Jan 12th, 2008

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Dec 21st, 2006

Comments

1
C'est Si Bon said on October 17th, 2005
This is a very fun climb, but watch what you grab holds are definitely going to come off this one.
2
diggum said on October 31st, 2005
Fun! The bottom is a little crispy, but everything up top is solid.
3
merrick said on December 2nd, 2005
best 5.8 sport route in the red in my opinion. super fun climbing...even in 14 degree weather with numb hands.
4
heavyc said on July 3rd, 2006
agree, best 5.8 in the Red, needs three stars
5
Huggybone said on November 26th, 2006
Very well cleaned up now.
6
Jeff said on November 27th, 2006
Very nice route, really fun moves and long.
7
caribe said on December 11th, 2006
A cake walk, but enjoyable!! This is a great experience for a beginner to overcome any sketch they have from heights. When the rock comes back out to a slight overhang approaching the bolts the 'feeling' will likely hit them, but the holds are really good!
8
Lateralus said on April 29th, 2007
I'd like to thank whoever put up this route. It was my son's first lead so it was part of a very special day for us. thanks much!
9
Dhaulagiri said on May 28th, 2007
Definitely one of the best sport routes at its grade in the whole red.
10
anticlmber said on June 1st, 2007
man where were routes like this when i started leading??? great find.
11
steep4me said on June 4th, 2007
Best 5.8 at the Red hands down. Better when the mud puddle at the base is dried up.
12
woman said on July 23rd, 2007
Best 5.8 in the Red... Move over Mr. Bungle! ;)
13
tunedvwgti said on September 22nd, 2007
Good route, but I definitely don't think it is the best 5.8 in the red. The start was mossy, the route stays a little wet at the bottom. A fun route, yes, but not the best in the red, I rated it ***. I would prefer all cows eat grass to this one for the best 5.8 actually. or even legends of limonite. The variety of holds on this climb are wonderful, pockets, plates, and jugs...
14
Wolf said on September 23rd, 2007
Tastes are totally subjective and there is no definitive "best 5.8" in the gorge. However, you are insane, as this climb is waaaaay better than ACEG or Legends.
15
Meadows said on September 27th, 2007
Tuned - did brushing come to mind?
16
charlie said on November 12th, 2007
FYI.....Rhino says FA was Alex Yeakley.
17
Lander said on November 19th, 2007
Ashtray dubbed this five-eightball. You can't say much more than that!
18
jlu said on November 21st, 2007
I agree it's a classic as far as 5.8's go
19
Josephine said on December 26th, 2007
bleayer beware. some big holds were breaking.
20
dbarless said on April 22nd, 2008
woman, mr bungle was never that great in the first place!
21
sidda323 said on April 24th, 2008
Was definitely a fun climb, especially as I just learned to lead.
22
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
The best route I've ever done at this level!!! Super fun, varying types of climbing, sweet top section with awesome layback flakes. Definitely worth coming to this crag just for this route.
23
whatahutch said on May 11th, 2008
There is a huge mudhole at the bottom of this route. Watchout for the dropped rope, because if you don't you may be buying rope soap like me.
24
soccerfast007 said on November 23rd, 2008
Really cool route, not too cold considering it was 30 degrees out, definitely not warm, but takes a little sun which is nice :)
25
galtron said on February 15th, 2009
this route is the shiz. my first lead ever.
26
gripster said on April 13th, 2009
best 5.8 i have ever been on, hands down
27
Barnacle Ben said on July 13th, 2009
Bottom half is pretty crummy, top half is stellar. Starts getting cool right before the two parallel cracks going up. As we found out, there are a bunch of different ways to get through that section.
28
sgauss said on October 19th, 2009
This route is a sampler of RRG climbing: slab, plates, pockets, and even a little overhung section!
29
swj said on August 21st, 2012
OMG! It's like the rock says to the climber... "Oh, you didn't like that jug, well here's another one that's a little bigger. Oh, you're not a fan of that one? Well, here's one that has a slightly different orientation. Try this one." It's Mother Nature giving us a slice of apple pie and then asking if we want some ice cream on top. Can't get much better than this. Can't wait to bring my daughter down next so she can lead this.
30
Anonymous said on August 21st, 2012
Left anchor spins and the bolt walks. It tagged it, so if the tag is gone check with Rick and Liz Weber to see if it has been replaced
31
EricDorsey said on August 21st, 2012
Rick and Liz are replacing bolts in the southern region too now!? Those guys are busy...
32
Anonymous said on April 2nd, 2013
April 1st, 2013 Loose left bolt on shuts!!!! Please be careful!
33
dustonian said on April 2nd, 2013
report at the link above (next to "Bolts") or at www.badbolts.com
34
Daeris said on July 7th, 2014
This was my first-ever outdoor lead (just recently), and I was very comfortable on it. It was great fun, and I felt like there were good holds at all the bolts, so it's a great beginner's lead in general. Get there early, as there was a line forming for this one.
35
MrHyde said on November 3rd, 2014
What an exquisite climb. Easy 5.8 lead, holds were absolutely bomber; those who are new to leading may find themselves a bit anxious towards the top and around the anchors, but do not worry - these holds are like glue. Great stuff. Probably the best 5.8 I've climbed.