Closed Project

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Guernica


25.
+0
0 votes

Murano 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: hasn't seen an FA
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The last bolted line on this section of cliff. Climb over a low roof, through plates to a cool slab at the top.
Moves: Plates
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
fun (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.41 stars (129 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (118 votes)

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Submitted by: Bloody Knees
Date: Oct 24th, 2012

Submitted by: Bloody Knees
Date: Oct 24th, 2012

Submitted by: nrd2052
Date: Apr 4th, 2011

Submitted by: pschu7
Date: Mar 28th, 2010

Submitted by: feelup0303
Date: Jun 29th, 2009

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Dec 21st, 2006

Comments

1
pigsteak said on August 28th, 2005
once cleaned up, will be very good line..the slab wil keep your attention.
2
merrick said on December 2nd, 2005
this is fun, the natural line stays to the right and is easier but the new 'project' line basically uses the same holds. easier than 10c but harder than 9 I would say.
3
anticlmber said on June 1st, 2007
yep, that there's a route. ***
4
Saxman said on October 18th, 2007
This is named A Brief History of Climb in the guidebook.
5
Saxman said on October 18th, 2007
Oops, I clicked on the wrong route. Nevermind.
6
Saxman said on October 18th, 2007
Murano I assume.
7
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
First 2/3rds is great, fun climbing, then you come over the lip and it's confusing no fun slab climbing to the top. The bottom is easier for tall climbers but still pretty tough, shorter climbers will have to figure out a different way. Pretty good route overall except for the slab section.
8
Brentucky said on June 1st, 2008
i thought this route was great! pretty much 2 completely different routes in 1. fun, challenging start move to awesome plates and then on to an interesting slab section with some neat slopers. it even comes equipped with an anchor clipping jug!
9
der uber said on September 1st, 2008
ok line. 10a
10
Anonymous said on November 10th, 2008
There is a lot of chalk going to the left of the crux but head straight through the slab to keep it 10b/c or head left for the 10a/b variation.
11
Barnacle Ben said on July 13th, 2009
It started pouring literally ten seconds before I got on this thing and after we had hung our draws. The bottom pocketed (fun) section stays dry but the slopey slab does not (bad). I'm looking forward to getting back on this when the whole thing is dry.
12
dustonian said on October 1st, 2009
Pretty good route, bad bolt near the top.... 2nd from top? Needs to be replaced.
13
gripster said on November 23rd, 2009
agreed, bad bolt at the last bulge. bolt stud is about 1/4" out of the rock now.
14
EricDorsey said on June 27th, 2011
Fun route, the bolt protecting what I thought was the crux(slab move at the top) is definitely a little scary looking.
15
CLIMBTRAD said on March 10th, 2012
Bolt replaced.. ss 5/8 Wave bolt glue in.. Please do not lower from bolt use some bail biners or links if u must bail.. Thanks Dustin for giving me the bolts to do this work.
16
CLIMBTRAD said on March 10th, 2012
On a side note the bad bolt came out by hand with a small 1/4 turn..the sleeve was rusted into 3 broken parts... I can not believe this bolt did not blow on someone!!!
17
swj said on August 21st, 2012
I think the slab part of this wouldn't feel so hard if it weren't for the awesome plates that precede it. Just when you think you're on a jug haul (a really fun one)... the jugs disappear! And you have to get all delicate and technical.... and... uh... a little scared :) But this makes it a great climb in my opinion.
18
DrRockso said on June 24th, 2015
Tightened up the spinner at the 1st bolt. Should be good to go for now.