Sacriledge

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Arsenal

Picador


3.
+1
1 votes

Bathtub Mary 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kipp Trummel, Karen Clark in 2005
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 10 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This fine sport route begins ~15 feet right of "Sacriledge". Second line on the left as you approach the wall. A starting slab takes you to a thin section that is well protected. Save some juice for the upper section, and enjoy the solid pump. A good warmup on cold days. Not a summer route.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Chain anchor under roof
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.52 stars (125 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (107 votes)

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Submitted by: taurusclimber
Date: Jun 5th, 2014

Submitted by: taurusclimber
Date: Jun 5th, 2014

Submitted by: Papa Bear
Date: Mar 25th, 2009

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: May 20th, 2007

Submitted by: caribe
Date: Feb 19th, 2007

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 22nd, 2006

Comments

1
Power2U said on June 8th, 2006
Good job...nice climb.
2
Meadows said on January 13th, 2007
This is one of the most incredible 11s in the Red! Definitely climb this if you're in the area.
3
bcombs said on May 7th, 2007
Beautiful route on good quality rock. This route and it's neighbor to the left are both excellent.
4
pawilkes said on February 4th, 2008
thought this was a good route but i rested a bit too much on it. some of the holds are freakin' amazing! the route has 10 bolts I'm pretty sure, not 9. the guidebook has it wrong too.
5
anticlmber said on February 4th, 2008
do you people really think this route is THAT good. almost 5 stars??? this then is at best two and a half. i guess if you really like Bandolier then this is right up your alley.
6
Lander said on March 26th, 2008
outstanding climb. great variety of moves on beautiful rock.
7
Anonymous said on February 3rd, 2009
anti licks donkey balls, this route is tits...
8
rjackson said on May 7th, 2009
I think between this route and Bandolier you have the standard for 11a in the gorge. So worth the trip on a rainy day; stayed dry in a downpour.
9
gripster said on September 8th, 2009
fun route, nice and long. i don't know about 11a though. i would like to think it is an 11a. seems like there is one solid crux in the route, a great rest, some easy moves to another great rest, followed by some more easy moves. my 2 cents.
10
Gregory said on November 10th, 2009
One of the best routes ever!
11
JeffCastro said on July 28th, 2010
I left some carabiners on the chains to lower from.
12
der uber said on March 4th, 2011
Recommended
13
Cromper said on July 7th, 2011
Softball sized wasp nest about 1/3 of the way up. Watch out.
14
Cleveland said on March 12th, 2012
We took the carabiners off of the chains today. They were worn pretty badly and unfortunately we didn't have any extra biners to leave up there.
15
tpowell said on May 20th, 2012
Pretty good climb. If overhangs make you uneasy then you may want to think about the route before you climb it.
16
rich said on May 31st, 2012
Make sure you check out the section before the hueco rest before you start because its very hard if you get off sequence up there. This route is amazing.
17
Reambo said on February 23rd, 2014
If there was a 6th star, I would give it. Feels tall. Awesome moment and good clipping stances. The hueco sit-spot is amazing. Exciting to swing out of the hueco and onto the short roof. Great holds on roof section. The chains are difficult to clip, hence the leaver biners. Biners on chains were in good shape at this time. If someone gets to it before I do, we need to haul a water bucket and brush up to clean the chalk graffiti off the back wall of the hueco
18
bcircell said on October 12th, 2015
Not sure why it took me so long to get on this route. All around incredible.
19
craig.smith1 said on December 30th, 2015
Really nice. One of the best of the grade.
20
merrick said on October 25th, 2016
This climb is delightful. It has a little of everything, classic pockets, fun technical crimping, steep jugs, the awesome bathtub rest. It deserves the hype.