Hellava Caucasian

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

Ridin' the Short Buzz


11.
+0
0 votes

Hot Drama Teacher 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Merrick Schaefer and Matt Tackett in 2005
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk 50 feet right of Spice of Life to find this varied line.
If you act like a boulderer and mantle and then act like trad climber and pull the jamming roof crux you will be rewarded with a stunning performance on long fun pulls between plates. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended
Moves: Crack and Face
Descent: quicklinks
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
pile (1) offwidth (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.72 stars (46 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (46 votes)

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Submitted by: ghuffster
Date: Oct 22nd, 2017

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 28th, 2007

Comments

1
merrick said on December 5th, 2005
This is open now and people should come climb it. We are not sure about the grade but while cleaning it, it spit off a 5.13 sport climber who did not know how to jam. However it might feel a little soft if you are a really strong trad climber. Let us know what you think. There is plenty of variety on this one to keep even someone with the shortest attention span focused.
2
Anonymous said on November 3rd, 2006
Ground fall potential at 2nd bolt.
3
RRO said on November 4th, 2006
its been over a year since i have been on the route. if my old age has not tricked me your standing on a pedestal with both feet and have a no hands rest to clip from on the second bolt with all the moves well protected to get to it. but old age and booze can get in the way. i will have to go out and look at it again. sometimes its just rock climbing.
4
RRO said on November 4th, 2006
and i still think EVERYONE should have to sign in to post comments, just keeps it cleaner imo.
5
ender52 said on November 13th, 2006
i'd say at least half the routes in the gorge have ground fall potential at the second bolt.
6
Anonymous said on January 2nd, 2007
Just because you say it, doesnt mean that it is true. Example. Id say im a good looking man.
7
ray said on March 18th, 2007
Hand jam. Yes, you have to hand jam. I loved it.
8
pigsteak said on April 30th, 2007
no ground fall potential at second bolt...and mr. "look at me, I'm Ray, and I trad climb"....what the hell is a hand jam? After stick clipping past that wierd crack, I was able to lay back that crazy thing....
9
Yasmeen said on April 30th, 2007
I didn't think the rating was soft. Even with handjams, it was a tough few moves. Don's description is classic, though: "5.11 with a 5.9 crux."
10
TIT said on June 3rd, 2007
Rob C. gets kudos for leading it twice within record time during a rain storm. Nice route.
11
JR said on July 2nd, 2007
The Traddie style lip maneuver reminded me of J-tree's The Hobbit.
12
Josephine said on April 5th, 2009
RRO - you suck! i don't think i ever cussed as much in my life as when trying to hang the f***ing 2nd draw! :-P for those of us under 6 feet tall - convince your partner to hang them for you so that you can clip the 2nd from the comfort of the no-hands ledge. otherwise you'll have to make an additional really not-fun move. don't know if it was ground fall or not ground fall - i was too busy swearing to notice ;-)
13
Wolf said on April 6th, 2009
I'm pretty sure Ihung the draw from the ledge, and I'm only 5'8", though I did have to stretch.
14
RRO said on April 9th, 2009
heh, you know whats funny josi. merrick and i bolted that route and he got the fa, hanging draws. if i rem right it was put a little high to help with the next crimpy and somewhat techy section for the grade. i do like hearing people cuss me, at least im on your mind
15
Josephine said on April 10th, 2009
oh - i don't doubt the bolt is where it needs to be. (mostly bec i fell on that bolt when i was unable to do the crimpy section afterwards and it kept me off the ledge) but i sure was swearin' like a sailor trying to get that draw hung! and next time i'm getting someone else to hang them :-D
16
jaseym01 said on August 9th, 2009
Three trad climbers, myself included, got on this route this weekend and none of us jammed the crack; go figure.
17
der uber said on August 10th, 2009
if you don't want to jam, you can get a right hand side pull, back step the crack, and reach up to the ledge. good overall route.
18
der uber said on August 10th, 2009
I meant left hand side pull, my bad
19
Gregory said on August 31st, 2009
Maybe a little harder when wet?
20
Spikeddem said on March 28th, 2012
Easier when wet.
21
tpowell said on June 10th, 2012
Great route. I didn't hand jam, so the crux through me off a few times mostly because I wasn't committing all the way.
22
Episketch said on July 10th, 2014
I'm 5'5" and I couldn't hang the 2nd draw with my feet on the ledge, but I found higher feet that allowed me to clip from a decent position. This was one of my first 5.11 lead climbs and I felt pretty safe on it.
23
savvytothemax said on September 7th, 2015
Copperhead found on ledge under roof between 3rd and 4th bolts. Be careful when placing your hands on the ledge.