Crumblies

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bronaugh Wall

Spread Eagle


6.
+4
4 votes

Belly of the Beast 5.12c (Sport) *****

First Ascent: Shannon Stuart-Smith in 2005
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the fifth line from the left side of the wall and the last line on this section of the wall. Begin under a roof and yard out on jugs to gain the overhanging face. Climb through long moves on good holds to a well defined crux. Keep it together for the rest of the route because it ain't over.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
steep (1) pumpy (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.62 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12c (36 votes)

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Submitted by: tequilamonster
Date: Oct 19th, 2014

Submitted by: tequilamonster
Date: Oct 19th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 14th, 2010

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jul 17th, 2007

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Jul 17th, 2007

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Apr 9th, 2006

Comments

1
ray said on April 3rd, 2006
Worth getting on. Steep jugs with a decent crux.
2
rdpoints said on April 26th, 2006
Great route! I might say 12c/d though.
3
rdpoints said on October 8th, 2006
A hold broke off the bottom of this, I don't think it should make it harder.....you can keep moving left to bypass the hold. Please post if you think different! Thanks
4
Power2U said on October 30th, 2006
seemed fine down low even with missing hold, I guess, cause I never did it with the hold that is now gone. Couple of fun cruxes on mega steep rock, good power route.
5
Andrew said on July 12th, 2007
Very good route, really fun moves.
6
512OW said on May 4th, 2008
The cheater stone pile at the base is aid. 12b A0. They aren't needed, and if you use them, you're skipping cool moves out the low roof that MAYBE make this 12c. Not to mention cheating yourself...
7
Artsay said on November 29th, 2009
I disagree, Kris. I’m 5’3” and for me to start out the initial low roof is both much more difficult (body position becomes horizontal powerful roof climbing instead of vertical pressing on huge feet) and dangerous unless there are spotters/crash pads, plus it’s not the memorable climbing of the route. Instead of building a rock pile, I just started with a boost to the juggy slot and the grade still felt like solid 5.12c to me. I saw some average height guy start by simply jumping to the juggy slot and another started inside the low roof and did a few straightforward and effortless palming moves out to the slot I start on. But for shorties like me, those few moves are strenuous and dangerous, thus the reason you probably saw the cheater stones.
8
512OW said on November 30th, 2009
Dangerous? Isn't it like 5 feet off the ground? Yasmeen recently did the roof, and she certainly isn't doing any dangerous power climbing. I definitely didn't do any palming and standing on huge feet. I just climbed it like a V2 or something roof. For me, the roof was more fun than all but the one crux move up high. But... its just rock climbing.
9
SCIN said on November 30th, 2009
I think you were on the chronic man, for real. Or are you shrinking with your old age? :) I can just step on the ledge, grab one hold, and reach out to the huge jug with my feet still on the ledge. It's like a V-grab because it's grabbing and not climbing at that point. Shorter folks have to actually climb to reach the jug. Michelle knows I'm a crappy spotter which is why she said dangerous. Dangerous can mean a bruised heal if you want to keep climbing all season. I told her "fuck it, just enjoy the rest of the route. It's just another 12c and not worth it without a pad" and she had a killer time on it. Like you said, it's just rock climbing man and we're not pros.
10
Andrew said on November 30th, 2009
Kris, I am very happy to say that you are wrong. I was there spotting Michelle as she climbed the route, and I can tell you that the moves she did were a lot harder than V2, and that was just to reach the section that I can grab from the ground. Not only that, but a fall there would put her straight on her back or close to it. Luckily, Jeremiah was spotting too because he is much stronger and better looking than I. When she fell on an early attempt she fell towards Jeremiah who spotted with the soft and secure touch of angels hands. Ray then punched Jeremiah in the face. It was awesome.
11
pigsteak said on November 30th, 2009
I wasn't there, and I didn't spot Michelle, but I also agree that Jeremiah is better looking and stronger than Andrew.
12
512OW said on December 1st, 2009
I think the real question now is whether Jeremiah is better looking and stronger than Ray... Andrew, if it were harder than V2 for Michelle, doesn't that mean, by your grading system, that it would be about V13 for you?
13
512OW said on December 1st, 2009
OR... since the "its just rockclimbing" thing goes both ways, you could opt to call getting a boost what it really is... A0. Especially when skipping perfectly solid and climbable rock, its the same as tramming up on the first bolt. I don't see a thing wrong with it... but to pretend its not what it is... is silly.
14
SCIN said on December 1st, 2009
I don't think there's any disagreement that it's A0 that way. I think the disagreement is the part where the route becomes a letter grade easier if you don't start in the roof. For short people I'd say it takes the route from 5.12c with a really hard start to 5.12c with an A0 start. Not to 5.12b with an A0 start. The reach up and grab the jug just doesn't add or detract from the grade of the route for me. No doubt it's an A0 start though if you use a boost, cheater stones, stump, rope ladder, etc. It's just a matter of what has become accepted. The 10 foot high cheater pile on White Man's is about the lamest thing I've ever seen and shorter people will make it even higher just so they can reach the holds that the big boys can reach. Nobody I know of has actually really truly climbed that route. They've all aided the start. But I bet Sharma could truly climb that route. Michelle may just be ahead of her time with this route. There may one day be a permanent person's shoulders to stand on up there in a couple of years. Jeremiah would be a good guy to keep up there since he is definitely better looking than me and Andrew.
15
bcombs said on December 1st, 2009
First, you are welcome for the project draws on this thing. Maybe one day I'll send the rig. Second, what the heck are all you strong asses doing at the North facing freezer that is the Bronough Wall on a November day? :)
16
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2009
Whether its a boost or cheater stones, it's all aid...and it's still climbing. I personally don't think getting a boost is any different than using cheater stones, one just takes more time to rig. But to say either isn't "needed" on this route isn't right. It was needed for me because I could have gotten hurt. If the move was 10 foot higher with rope to catch me, I would've tried more than the few times I did because it looks cool and I like getting horizontal (heh). But watching others effortlessly reach to start where I had to launch horizontally to just made it seem like an unnecessary risk. And from those I saw climb it, it definitely doesn't make the route harder. Besides, cool beginning moves start from the same hold I start on, pulling the bulge to the jugs where you get a full rest 8ft off the ground. I posted this because, to me, it's important for a shorty like me to read my comment, in contrast to Kris', so they don't feel pressured to do the beginning moves in the low roof and maybe get hurt. It's still 5.12c and a super fun route.
17
Anonymous said on December 1st, 2009
Oops, I wasn't logged in. ~Michelle Oh yea, also Ray is definitely hotter than all you thugs! :-)
18
Meadows said on December 7th, 2009
Actually, Ray ... Dave actually really truly climbed the route and didn't aid it. He's no Sharma. ;-)
19
Anonymous said on July 20th, 2010
not 12c with an A0 start. The hardest moves are bypassed with this lameness
20
aburgoon said on September 28th, 2010
One can execute a figure four to move past the low difficult moves without much danger
21
THB said on October 24th, 2010
amazing route! i left some biners at chains on this route back in the summer... i pulled them off today, so if you've been getting on it lately, take a couple extra draws for the chains. also, i've seen about 3 cleaning biners get taken off of this route... they are normally left around the 4th or 5th bolt... if you see a biner around this section of the route, it's not booty, its to make cleaning the route easier... there is no cleaning biner there as of today, but i've been hearing rumors that this route may get equipped with perma-draws, which would be nice! as for the cheater pile at the base... totally unneccesary... my girlfriend is 5'5" and had no problems with it... seems to be still doable and fun even if you are shorter... enjoy!
22
aburgoon said on November 1st, 2010
Regardless of how you start, def not the same difficulty as Steelworker or Resurrection.
23
der uber said on May 21st, 2011
Very cool, not sure what would get skipped down low. Cool all the way up.
24
tyler.yarbrough said on September 24th, 2014
Looking for beta - at the third bolt there's a ledge that looks good but is stupidly slopey. I've been going right and using an undercling and that really bad ledge to get to a good pocket. Is there a better way to do this by maybe going left?
25
Shannon said on September 26th, 2014
Tyler, I and most climbers I know, use the undercling to hit a subtle right-hand crimp on the lip of the slopey ledge at the third clip, then readjust our feet to go higher and hit the deeper pocket right hand above the slopey ledge. The only other way I have seen a climber get through that section is to just power off the left-hand undercling and go straight to the pockets above the ledge without touching/using the insecure right-hand crimp. Have not seen or heard of going left...but maybe there is some one who can speak to that.
26
tequilamonster said on November 17th, 2014
Tyler, I use the sloper up and left of the bolt. If that is what you are referring to. Undercling to get the shitty right crimp, fancy footwork, left hand sloper, high left foot in hueco you were underclinging in, lock off on right hand shit hold, reach through to good pocket with left hand.
27
anticlmber said on April 12th, 2015
Draw on shield is bad. Gate opened and rope came out after pulling over shield. Replaced with new one but did not have wrench on me to pull old one off. If someone heads there sooner than me take a wrench up. Doesn't need to be fixed, just a cleaner/directional is all that's needed.
28
climb2core said on October 5th, 2015
Love this route. Thanks SSS
29
Raiden said on November 12th, 2017
Seems like people are making a long move to the right of the shield feature and not climbing the compression moves on the shield. Probably easier this way.