Berlin Wall

This route is located in the Lower Gorge Region at Pebble Beach

Punkin Head


24.
+0
0 votes

Blood Money 5.9+ (Sport) **

First Ascent: Mark Strevels, Frank Waters in 1992
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Hike back down to the lower level from Berlin Wall and Big Money then 300 feet along the cliff. Pass a breakdown in the wall and when the wall increases in size look for a face climb with a couple of small roofs.
Walking off left is another descent option.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Rap Rings
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.64 stars (22 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (15 votes)

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Comments

1
Power2U said on July 28th, 2003
This definitely is the best route West of the Mississippi. Only two stars? This George classic deserves 3 stars if you ask me!
2
Roentgen Ray said on October 16th, 2004
Karl about killed himself on this one, blew 2nd bolt and swung down inverted. Head missed the ground by mere inches.
3
Sco Bro said on October 29th, 2004
My ass was sooo puckered up on this climb that I couldn't fart for a week, damn near killed me.
4
hamsco said on January 5th, 2005
This route is a mixed route! It takes a small cam in a horizontal under a small roof down low.
5
hamsco said on January 5th, 2005
This route is a mixed route! It takes a small cam in a horizontal under a small roof down low.
6
Anonymous said on March 17th, 2005
it's definitly a sport route. While gear could go in parts, there's no need as there's a bolt every 7ft. Anchors at top too, not a walk off left
7
caribe said on March 28th, 2006
Yep, climbed it... wished I'd brought a small cam for that shelf.
8
Yasmeen said on October 23rd, 2006
What kind of anchors? I'll update the description if someone will post details.
9
Crankmas said on October 23rd, 2006
the anchors it has had since its inception perhaps? two Metolius rap-rings if I remember correctly ( .5 cam is recommended the miniroof is kinda rotten to the right) if you place it slightly to your right the rope will run through the budge cleanly and can prove valuable for those inverted whips
10
Yasmeen said on October 24th, 2006
Cool - updated.
11
ReachHigh said on October 13th, 2008
The danger of the route is the only fun it provides. really should be done as a mixed route with a piece between the first and second bolt.
12
BryMX said on March 8th, 2011
Climbed this last Friday (3/4/11). First off, a good stretch of the trail is buried under a pretty big tree fall but the base of the climb is open so hiker beware. Bolt and anchor placements don't seem to be well thought through. Not only is the distance between 1 and 2 deck worthy but the bolt before the anchors is directly over a ledge which makes the rope and the draw lay awkwardly. Bottom two bolts should have been shifted right a bit so it runs smoothly through the gap in the ledge. Lastly, the anchors need to be shifted right and replaced. The right anchor bolt is very loose. All the bolt heads are looking very rusted and pockmarked. After all that the climb itself was great. Very fun moves for a 9+.
13
CLIMBTRAD said on August 10th, 2011
bolt placement is very bad and all the bolts are rusted. not a bad climb just bad bolting. Anyone mind if i rebolt this with glue ins
14
pawilkes said on August 10th, 2011
route rebolting is generally accepted by the community. Retro-bolting a route (that is adding or significantly changing the location of bolts) is typically frowned upon. If you want to retro bolt something approach the FAs (Frank is still active in the Lexington/Red climbing communities) and ask them permission.
15
CLIMBTRAD said on August 10th, 2011
Thanks i dont want to move the bolts just fix the anchor and some rusty bolts.
16
Crankmas said on August 23rd, 2012
Anyone can feel free to replace or move the bolt locations, its fine by the FAs, the anchors should be thought about though, when you make the finish moves they are in an ideal location, at least we thought so, we did move left after the last bolt to finish up the little alcove feature.
17
jdperk1 said on November 19th, 2012
As a non-bolter I have no room to complain, but...., I think it would be a better route if the 1st bolt was moved up ~3' (still within stick clip range) and the 2nd bolt was pulled down a couple feet (so it's there when you pull the small roof). Like Brymx, I also didn't like the last bolt before the anchors. Both carabiners on my quickdraw kept opening up as it dragged across the rock. Which kinda freaked me out when I was making the hard move to the anchors. Great route!
18
Jackiefreesh said on June 19th, 2015
Essentially, I did this as a trad route, but I did use the anchors and of course they worked fine. Great route if you don't mind the adventurous kind.
19
monty4355 said on October 11th, 2015
Bolts on this are scary!