Crosley

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

Moment of Truth


3.
+0
0 votes

Toker 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Jason McCleanen in 2005
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 8 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Walk left from where the approach trail meets the cliff, past an arete project. Stand on a boulder to reach the initial starting jug then continue up the plated face to an overhanging finish.
Moves: Plates
Descent: Chains
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.93 stars (87 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (81 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Aug 6th, 2014

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 3rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 3rd, 2013

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Oct 3rd, 2013

Submitted by: ferris
Date: Jun 26th, 2013

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: May 27th, 2013

Submitted by: dustonian
Date: May 27th, 2013

Submitted by: donargento
Date: Mar 23rd, 2012

Submitted by: donargento
Date: Mar 23rd, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jan 11th, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Jan 11th, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 6th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 6th, 2011

Submitted by: Michiza
Date: Oct 17th, 2006

Comments

1
ray said on April 30th, 2006
Fun line. Cool transition to overhanging near the top.
2
Sco Bro said on May 3rd, 2006
Jump start, sweet.
3
Paul3eb said on May 21st, 2006
fun fun line.. why doesn't this crag see more action?!
4
One-Fall said on August 8th, 2006
Cool heel hook start, with fun movement on good holds.
5
Michiza said on October 17th, 2006
Sweet route! Good flash-pump potential at the end! If you're not top on endurance, try to get good rest before the steep upper part.
6
dbrayack said on November 14th, 2007
This line has 8 bolts from my count.
7
pawilkes said on February 7th, 2008
I think this route has 7 or 8 bolts on it, definitely more than the 6 that the guide book says. fun route, big holds and a big fall if you blow it at the anchors (but the fall is totally clean) having the draws on it, especially at the anchors makes it much easier
8
Anonymous said on October 15th, 2009
This route is only 4 years old? The bolts on the upper section in the softer more pourus rock looks terrible, they are completely rusted. They should be replaced with stainless glue ins. Carbon steel just doesn't hold up in the Red's environment.
9
Andrew said on October 15th, 2009
Thanks for offering to replace them, I expect the new glue-ins by next weekend.
10
Anonymous said on October 17th, 2009
I expected that. If this were my local crag, where I have replaced a couple dozen old bolts I would do it. Seeing as how I'm 2000 miles from home though I don't have my drill or hardwear, and my $100 went to the rrgcc to help with their mortgage. It would be great if the locals here would step up and put in good hardwear that will last, but the amount of rusty bolts next to rusty holes tells me that more holes will be drilled more frequently to put in more short lived carbon steel. Should only be 25 years or so before there's no more good rock to pound in a bolt, but at least andrew will have had his fun and quit climbing by then.
11
said on September 19th, 2010
As said in the previous comment....the anchors are terrible along with the last 2 bolts.....please be careful.....they look awfully rusted and erroded.....id love to help change them since this is such a amazing route.....unfortantly...i cant.....but someone really should soon
12
Lander said on April 14th, 2011
This climb makes for a good warm-up/ warm-down for this cliff. It's really fun too.
13
Josephine said on April 30th, 2011
a long draw on the last bolt was helpful to me
14
Jeff said on November 10th, 2011
I intend to replace the anchors and last 2 bolts on this tomorrow, Friday Nov 11. If you plan on climbing it that day, clip the old hangers/draws. Should get back Sunday to clean up.
15
dustonian said on November 10th, 2011
wow, lookin bad already huh?
16
dustonian said on November 10th, 2011
never mind, just read the other comments. again, wow. Thanks Jeff! Just to reiterate what you said, use the old bolts until they are removed (so the glue has time to set). And for gawd's sake DO NOT LOWER DIRECTLY THROUGH THE NEW GLUE-INS!!!!
17
Jeff said on November 10th, 2011
And meant to say clip the old hangers/chains. Not draws. Thanks for reiterating not lowering directly through glue ins Dustin. That's something we will have to mention at every opportunity.
18
Jeff said on November 21st, 2011
Got all the old stuff off the top except for the (d) left anchor. Head is stripped and pretty much fused from corrosion. The chain on it is attached with a larger QL that I didn't have a wrench for. If someone gets on it anytime soon, can you take an adjustable wrench with you and remove the chain? If its rusted, you can usually crank on it so that it's torqued against the hanger and get it to budge.
19
climb2core said on November 21st, 2011
Jeff, we got the chain off the day Joe L and I saw you, but couldn't get the bolt/anchor out. Ian
20
Jeff said on November 21st, 2011
Ahh, misunderstanding on my part. Thanks Ian.
21
climb2core said on November 21st, 2011
BTW, Kevin Wilkenson snaked the chain and QL... well, he asked my buddy for it who didn't know what to say. So, if you need some chains and QL, I would be happy to provide some new shiny ones. I am down Wed night, let me know...
22
cliftongifford said on February 3rd, 2012
Excellent route. Those glue ins make you feel a lot safer up there. Thanks.
23
Willy said on March 29th, 2012
Crux is clipping the chains
24
Jeff said on May 27th, 2013
Killer pic Dustin!