Climbing with Crowbars

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Tectonic Wall and Johnny's Wall

2 Chicken Butts


14.
-1
1 votes

Thanks Holly 5.8 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Mike Trabel, Mike Susko in 2006
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Right of the chimney/crack system is this slabby arete. Follow the big holds and stellar stances to anchors above a final ledge.
Moves: Slab
Descent: 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.53 stars (74 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8 (72 votes)

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Comments

1
DuppyC said on July 28th, 2006
Seems harder than 59" DrillBitch
2
DuppyC said on July 30th, 2006
strike that, I did not get on this route. Hopefully I will find it next time.
3
Power2U said on September 30th, 2006
Drippy wet lichen covered mistake?
4
alfredo said on December 28th, 2006
This was REALLY wet at the anchors. It rained hard two days ago... Maybe it's a better climb in the summertime.
5
usmcmars said on June 8th, 2007
Moldy Route - very much so at the anchors. I found it somewhat balancy. Would have been more fun if it wasn't so damp.
6
tunedvwgti said on November 12th, 2007
Not as bad as the above comments indicate! Decent route. I disagree with the 8+ user rating. I would rate it as 8
7
keegan540 said on June 18th, 2008
good route if you like crimpy slab
8
Wolf said on June 18th, 2008
As someone who loves crimpy slab, I say "No, no it's not."
9
JDM0127 said on March 10th, 2009
This was my 1st rock climb ever. I rate it at a 7. It was all dry in late fall so that could be one reason, but this route was 50 times easier than ED which was my 2nd climb. Not taking from the fact that it drove me to my new obsession.
10
512OW said on March 10th, 2009
Maybe try climbing for a while (years) before applying ratings. I'm just sayin...
11
JDM0127 said on March 10th, 2009
I have made a few climbs since. Every 5.7 I've ever climbed has been more difficult than this, hence "my" rating.
12
rjackson said on May 18th, 2009
Not bad, seems to be lacking good flow...
13
Barnacle Ben said on June 15th, 2009
Dirty, wet, green....but kind of fun. Decent enough warm up.
14
Redpoint said on July 16th, 2009
This thing was soaking wet when I climbed it, but the rest of the routes I climbed that day were fine. I wanted to see what all the fuss was about when climbing on wet rock so I climbed it anyhow. Well now I know; it sucks when you can't trust your feet while trying to make the clip, or when just lead climbing in general.
15
Jeff said on June 13th, 2011
I agree with rjackson about the flow thing but I was leading. Theresa made it flow like water. I thought this was trickier than the 5.9 to the right.
16
Izzy said on June 21st, 2012
cool route, better than 2 stars for sure, at least when it's dry.