Green Tea

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

Slow Jack


49.
+0
0 votes

Norway on my Mind 5.9- (Sport) **

First Ascent: Don Byrd, Josh Thurston in 2006
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Start by climbing up and through a hueco just left of "Slow Jack". Follow the path of least resistance and imagine a lovely Norwegian princess on belay.
Moves: Slab
Descent: Anchors
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.54 stars (57 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (65 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Oct 8th, 2006

Comments

1
Ascentionist said on September 26th, 2006
Just a note to the guys who equipped the route: if you're gonna bolt a route, wait until you can afford to do it right. Skimping on the chains is bad form. This route is 5.10 to the third bolt, and then 5.8 to the anchors. It'll get harder as more edges crumble.
2
goodguy said on September 26th, 2006
Sorry about that, I forgot the chains at home in Indiana. I'll get those up soon. Are the biners and slings still at the top? The grade is totally dependent on how the start and 2nd to 3rd bolt sequences are done. Stiff, but still 5.8 IMPO
3
Ascentionist said on September 27th, 2006
There is no way that route is 5.8, I don't care what "sequence" you use. The feet are not 5.8 feet combined with the hands that are not 5.8 hands. It's just not there.
4
goodguy said on September 27th, 2006
Well, if memory serves me right. The day Don and I did the route, Don got the FA on lead and he is a nervous 5.8 leader. He did the route clean and he is only about 5'5" and 60+ years old. So if a nervous old climber does it and says, "its 5.8+ at best " I'll take his word for it. Sorry your so upset about this route. Im not.
5
Anonymous said on September 29th, 2006
i like it just the way it is
6
hamsco said on October 1st, 2006
The biners and slings were gone on 9-30-06 I liked the climb, but I hope the edges dont pop or it will be 5.10+ next time I.m at Solar I be glad to put on anchors
7
hamsco said on October 1st, 2006
I climbed on to the anchors of Slow Jack and cleaned like an overhanging sport route
8
goodguy said on October 1st, 2006
Im putting up chains on the 7th. But thank you. When I cleaned the route, I gave all the edges a good kick or two and they seem like they'll hold.
9
Stewy911 said on October 1st, 2006
pretty solid route as far the rock quality goes. UBER_CLASSIC
10
donbyrd said on May 21st, 2007
I'll be darned; the last time I looked at this page, there were no comments here! Re the grade, actually, I could believe it's 5.8+ or 9- (I was a 5.9 leader, and less nervous, only a day after doing the FA of this), but no way it's a 10. Also, I'm actually not even 5'4", and I was a mere 59 last August. A small point :-) . But it's great that people like this route; Josh deserves _all_ the credit for seeing the possibility and drilling and bolting, and I'm thrilled to have an FA at my age. Thanks again, goodguy!
11
pigsteak said on September 2nd, 2007
5.9
12
dbarless said on October 6th, 2007
just to help settle the argument, feet and hands on slab climbs are not supposed to be huge jugs and ledges!!!! 5.8 slab climbs differently than .8 face and/or .8 overhangs!
13
JR said on October 22nd, 2007
It is settled!!! Just because you say so!!!!!!!Exclamation!!!!!
14
Anonymous said on October 28th, 2007
Thanks JR, I'm glad you got my back...
15
Meadows said on November 13th, 2007
I've been on 5.8's that are more difficult than this. Y'all just need to adjust your panties so you can find better feet.
16
ahab said on April 7th, 2008
i suggest you take the advice in the description. the fine Kentuckiana princess i had on belay was the only thing that kept me from losing it. i'm sorry, and i don't usually say this about ANY routes, but this thing is just plain bad. had to adjust my panties multiple times looking for "feet" in a sea of broken holds. the large eyeball-like huecos to the right were cool though.
17
Lander said on November 11th, 2008
meh. it's not a bad route. it's just kind of ....forgettable.