Lobster Claw

This route is located in the Southern Region at Rival Wall

May As Well


10.
-2
3 votes

Days of Thunder 5.9 (Sport)

First Ascent: Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan, Jared Hancock, Karla Hancock in 2006
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move right and just around the corner from Lobster Claw to the next bolted line. Climb a dirty start to gain better rock above. Take on a slopey crux near the top then run it on jugs to the anchors.
Moves: Jugs
Descent: Rap anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:
contrived (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

1.82 stars (56 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (42 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 1st, 2006

Comments

1
pigsteak said on September 4th, 2006
top needs another bolt or it should be considered a mixed line.
2
ray said on October 1st, 2006
Funky slopey moves up high.
3
J-Rock said on October 22nd, 2006
The sloper crux is well-protected by the last bolt. After that it is extremely easy climbing onto a large ledge from which you clip the anchors. Not really much of a run-out or need for gear at all. Of course a climber could skip the crux by traversing right to the crack on the next route and then up and back left, but they will only be cheating themselves and the route will be 5.7 at best.
4
Cleveland said on March 26th, 2007
This route sucks! It's chossy and harder than a 5.9.
5
jamlawyer said on March 26th, 2007
Lots of rock still breaking off. You will see the pile at the bottom of the route. My belayer wore a helmet and was glad to have it on.
6
Josephine said on October 28th, 2007
rocks still breaking. bleayer beware
7
Lander said on November 17th, 2007
This climb is contrived. They try to make you climb the face with the bolts where they are but the natural line is the crack which looks like it protects just fine. Waste of bolts.
8
RRO said on November 17th, 2007
i did it as a trad route long before the bolts were sank. called it "may as well" 0 stars. i was surprised to see this one bolted
9
JR said on November 19th, 2007
This route is almost worth chopping. I also give it no stars.
10
Buster said on November 19th, 2007
This thing is great! Not as good as say those things at curbside but not everyone can have an eye for great line! Don't listen to the haters, this thing is fantastic. JR, I can't believe that you of all people would try to stir the pot by suggesting that this route be chopped. Lander, waste of bolts? What do you know? How could you shit on the Ryan's and Hancocks' efforts? They mean well!!! Keep the routes coming!
11
cliftongifford said on July 29th, 2009
this route is a day ruiner! no way this is a 5.9 or even in the 10 range! if you don't go off route, right to the crack at the sloper crux its really hard. looks as if a large foothold has broken that may have made the move at one time in the 5.9ish range.
12
dkjazz said on March 7th, 2010
I enjoyed it ! better then 2 stars
13
jomagam said on July 5th, 2010
What cliftongifford said. A hold must've broken at the crux. Now that move is at least 11+.
14
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
Agree on 5.11 move required to follow bolts. Moving right to crack feels unsafe.
15
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2012
everyone goes right at the top anyway- hints the 5.9- i agree another bolt should be put in at the top right side,, make it safe
16
Spikeddem said on August 30th, 2013
quite terribly bolted for how the lines flows in its current state
17
Chiyram said on August 10th, 2015
For some reason I needed to climb this to see why it was rated zero stars...don't feel the need to climb this...
18
zabadoo222 said on October 16th, 2015
I thought this climb was pretty terrible. Poorly bolted too.
19
dlangdonj said on May 24th, 2016
0 stars
20
nitrousstone said on August 3rd, 2017
only climbed this in honor of tom cruise..... more like days of chunder