Tourette Syndrome

This route is located in the Southern Region at Rival Wall

Monobrow


5.
+0
0 votes

Rorschach Inkblot Test 5.8+ (Sport) **

First Ascent: Yasmeen Fowler,Don McGlone, JATD crew in 2006
Length: 50ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the first bolted line right of the approach trail and is located just right of Epic Indicator. Begin on a ledge and surmount the low overhang making use of whichever holds you can find. Continue on larger holds to the anchors.
Moves: unknown
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.06 stars (63 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.8+ (60 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Oct 1st, 2006

Comments

1
Don McGlone said on August 28th, 2006
5.8 A0
2
RRO said on August 29th, 2006
if you are short or old as the corpse this will be a 1 move wonder hard route. the rest of the route is a lot of fun.
3
bcombs said on August 29th, 2006
5.8 A0 is right! Watch out for the thigh scraper.
4
Sco Bro said on September 3rd, 2006
There is nothing 5.8 about that start; I mean nothing.
5
Feanor007 said on September 10th, 2006
Easy first move if your tall, not so if otherwise
6
ReachHigh said on October 4th, 2006
I have no problem with those starting holds. I don't know what you'll are talkin about.
7
rhunt said on October 5th, 2006
cheater stones...5.8+
8
mrgoldenbrown said on October 22nd, 2007
I don't see how the first move is 5.8. that move was harder than any on the 9 and 10a i did that same day at the Shire.
9
Josephine said on October 28th, 2007
A0 to first bolt. 5.8 afterwards. do not let your partner use "cheater stones" lest one of them fall off the ledge and onto your foot! :-(
10
Lander said on November 17th, 2007
What sucks is after you're forced to aid to the first bolt, the climbing the rest of the way isn't even worth it. I wish people would be more discerning when scoping lines to bolt.
11
JR said on November 19th, 2007
No one forced you to aid to the first bolt Lander. I think most people enjoyed the challenge of starting the route.
12
Buster said on November 19th, 2007
Yeah Lander, what JR said! I mean, this is another offering from the JATD crew! How could you talk such smack?
13
RRO said on November 19th, 2007
just cause im bored and its kinda fun. this line is not 5 stars, no one has said so or ever thought it would be, the fa'r, or the dreaded and miserable jatd crew.i climbed it and its not terrible, maybe 2.5 outta 5. but i think quite a few people may enjoy it. but whats funny is this route reminds me of a route that was put up by someone from team old crusty bitter men. i too wish people were more discerning when scoping lines to bolt :) http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuideV2/show_route.php?id=643
14
ahab said on March 18th, 2008
Even though the start doesn't match up with the rest of the route, I still found this to be alot more enjoyable than sitting @ work, entering comments about routes instead of climbing them.
15
dirtdog said on September 29th, 2008
I thought is was a fun route - I don't see how you could NOT put a route up here if the area is going to be developed. One of the climbers in our party continued up past the anchors to the crack and topped out where there was webbing on a tree, directly above the route. Might have been the end of Epic Indicator. We then lead it on the bolts and his gear up top. It was a little fragile up there with lots of lichen at the top, but fun.
16
dah-le said on April 26th, 2009
If not doing a0 for the first move, make sure to stick the 1st...a 5.8 leader will definitely be at (above?) their limit.
17
merrick said on September 14th, 2009
If your short make sure you stickclip the first bolt (there are sticks lying around everywhere) Then jump. There is no way to avoid this and you really need to jump pretty far. Well worth it though.
18
dkjazz said on March 7th, 2010
First move harder then 8, but the rest is real easy. we need to do some trial work on this area. Not a go belay stand.
19
Rollo said on April 14th, 2010
There is nothing wrong with this line unless you are short. Only the very first move will fell harder. Fun little 8 with Creature Feature plates at the top.
20
Episketch said on June 12th, 2014
I am 5'5" and the start was very hard for me. The rest of the route was much easier, though I didn't find it to be anything special. There are much better moderate routes out there.