Tweaked Unit

This route is located in the Southern Region at Courtesy Wall

The Climbing Corpse Cometh


7.
+0
0 votes

Aural Pleasure 5.11a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Wes Allen, JATD crew in 2006
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Shuffle 10 feet left of Tweaked Unit to the next sport line. Climb jugs up a left leaning arete. At the third bolt, move sharply left into the business half of this route. Flexibility will help the shorties get through the crux.
Moves: Crimps or Edges
Descent: Bolt Anchor
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Private
Steepness:
stout (1) vertical (1) technical (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.35 stars (37 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (42 votes)

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Comments

1
pigsteak said on September 4th, 2006
I thought the crux was every bit as hard as the next route right.
2
merrick said on October 31st, 2006
This route was pretty full on. Really fun and enjoyable but felt quite tricky and even gave a me a pump. I would cirticize the second bolt placement, since when I did the math in my head, the calculation was a certain groundfall. spicy!
3
ray said on March 10th, 2007
This line is truly unique. I think I hung on the jugs before the crux for 20 minutes trying to figure out what to do. I was wondering what Michelle would do since I knew she wouldn't be able to reach the high right crimpy thing. She ended up working it out though. It was nice. Great line guys.
4
jamlawyer said on August 23rd, 2007
Very difficult crux. I also wasn't able to reach the high right crimpy thing. Took a while to figure it out for us shorties. But, great fun!
5
Anonymous said on August 23rd, 2007
I'm 6'1" and used every bit of it to make the crux move.
6
Wes said on August 23rd, 2007
I am 5'7" and could just barely make the move, when the right hand crimp was about 3 times the size it is now. Then Paul V. broke it on the 2nd assent. Might be hard for 10d, but still 10d.
7
Horatio Felacio said on May 2nd, 2008
solid for the grade.
8
Horatio Felacio said on May 2nd, 2008
oh yeah, and the 2nd bolt placement is jacked. climbing though jugs to make a clip off a slopey (but decent) shelf with a definite grounfall if you blow it.
9
pawilkes said on November 14th, 2009
Felt like an 11 of some sort to me. I felt like there were two cruxes, one off two horrible nubbins (i'm pretty sure they used to be bigger, bright orange rock around them) and then one off a goofy/bad right hand crimp and weird two finger under cling. not a route i'd recommend
10
anticlmber said on May 24th, 2010
good route, better beta exists avoiding the shite holds for not as shite holds.
11
lena_chita said on August 30th, 2010
Definitely felt harder than Tweaked Unit right next to this route.
12
Anonymous said on October 19th, 2010
There's a variation for the crux like 2 feet to the right. It's not .10d at this point no matter how you do it.
13
Anonymous said on July 26th, 2011
i'm no stranger to thin high stepping cruxes and that move between 5 and 6 was thin. saw a small unchalked edge when lowering about two-four inches beneath the ledge... so maybe 11a.
14
climb2core said on July 26th, 2011
Agree, this thing is no 10 IMO. Maybe it is my ego speaking as I thought I had 10 onsight in the bag, but this thing was harder than the grade let on. Still a fun route, no matter the grade. :)
15
jenbongo said on April 5th, 2012
I agree with pawilkes about there being 2 cruxes. The first one had the tiniest pinch, and the second one I mantled to the painful crimp. Then I saw someone find another way to do crux 2, so I'd like to try it again sometime.
16
Power2U said on June 18th, 2012
Tough crux, my left hand popped off that weird pinch/crimp hold that doesn't have much to it just as I was dead pointing with my left hand to a decent hold, right foot popped off too... way exciting, but somehow I managed not to fall...phew! Of course it didn't help that there was 1 billion percent humidity today ;-) This is a great little wall, all 3 climbs recommended!
17
Wes said on October 8th, 2012
10d all day long.
18
Chiyram said on August 10th, 2015
I wanted to like this route, but that second crux doesn't belong on an 11a and the mossy finish wasn't great either. The movement on the route is fun but that second crux sucks, or maybe I suck or some holds have broken, but I haven't not been able to do a crux on a 11a in about 2 years. This route is significantly harder than the 11b to the right of it as well.
19
MartyV said on July 31st, 2017
This route is harder and not as fun as the one to the right (Tweaked Unit). I'm guessing something must have broken off. If you are wondering if you should do this one or Tweaked Unit ... jump on Tweaked it's stellar technical climbing.
20
Anonymous said on July 31st, 2017
agree that this one is way harder, but i thought it was plenty fun. if you just think of it as .11c what's not to like?