The "start" of the crag

This route is located in the Gray's Branch Region at Left Flank

Too Many Puppies


1.
+3
3 votes

To Defy the Laws of Tradition 5.10a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder in 1992
Length: 60ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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From the top of the trail, head left and around the corner about 100 feet past several bolted lines until you reach this striking line on an orange face just left of a bolted arete.
Moves: Pockets
Descent: Cold shuts
Owner: NFS
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

4.01 stars (208 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (166 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: amarius
Date: Nov 15th, 2016

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 29th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 29th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Nov 29th, 2011

Submitted by: Cleatus
Date: Dec 4th, 2007

Submitted by: hrtmnstrfr
Date: Sep 4th, 2007

Submitted by: ray
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Submitted by: oldman
Date: Dec 18th, 2005

Comments

1
jlu said on November 23rd, 2003
great route, especially once you get a top rope. i climbed it 3 different ways after leading
2
mazzystr said on April 7th, 2004
woo wee! that 6th clip is a bugger!
3
J-Rock said on June 23rd, 2004
Beautiful rock
4
Roentgen Ray said on October 16th, 2004
Best 10a at the Red.
5
Ian said on May 24th, 2005
A great route, best 10a in the Red.
6
usccabum1985 said on June 21st, 2005
Best 10a Iv done. super fun. It was a great way to end the weekend.
7
K-Dawg said on September 29th, 2005
The bottom was wet when we did this. Made for a tricky start but the rest was fine.
8
Captain Bad Beta said on October 3rd, 2005
This was a great route. This will test you if 10a is near your limit. I remember the beginning being thin with a nice crux move sequence low in the climb. I was pumped by the end which makes you move through the last 3rd as quick as possible.
9
dancingkornelius said on October 12th, 2005
one of the best routes i have ever been on
10
Anonymous said on October 18th, 2005
It's on the cover of cloudveil's catalog. It's that good. -Chad H
11
kek-san said on February 17th, 2006
Fantastic route. One of my new favorites. However, the rapidlink on the rap station has a lot of toprope wear on one side. Could use to be replaced.
12
B.J. said on June 27th, 2006
Awesome climb, but do you think there's enough chalk on it?
13
p0bray01 said on April 8th, 2007
I remember my FIRST visit to Left flank and upon seeing this thought it was like 5.15. I thought "man I will never be able to top rope thi...nonetheless lead it!" Surely enough...I suprised myself. What a great route.
14
dbarless said on May 21st, 2007
A good climb, but I think it is a little overrated. The rock is beautiful, the moves are all interesting, and the no-hands rest between the 3rd and 4th bolts is so nice...
15
MSMITH said on July 29th, 2007
Eh, I thought the crux sequence was a little goofy, but still fun climb on beautiful rock.
16
clattin1 said on September 22nd, 2007
One of my first 10a leads and a definite challenge for me. I'd say it's quite a bit tougher than Rat Stew & some of the other Muir 10as. You can really wear yourself out on the low crux (up to the 3rd bolt?) and then be tired for the rest of the climb. I almost took a big fall on the 6th bolt, there is a video on YouTube of a girl falling in the exact same spot. But I agree it's a really interesting climb and not to be missed. Even the name is epic!
17
clattin1 said on September 22nd, 2007
Also: anchors need to be re-bolted, there are 4 up there to choose from but the bottom left is a spinner and the others are kind of weird, too far apart and not well supported.
18
uberwhipper said on June 10th, 2008
My first 10a. It made me wonder why the second to last and the last bolt were so far apart. Great route with fun moves. I'm sure it wouldn't have felt run out to me if I wasn't leading over my head.
19
keegan540 said on June 19th, 2008
classic jug haul, really fun finishing moves
20
kisor740 said on October 28th, 2008
great route little runout from bolt to last bolt but actually kind of glad it isnt a deck stretch it is just fun
21
DuppyC said on December 30th, 2008
Best route of a good weekend.
22
Dman said on January 13th, 2009
great climb alot of holds to choose from
23
kman154 said on February 9th, 2009
Probably one of my favorite routes at the moment.
24
Izzy said on August 14th, 2009
Beautiful setting, but overrated and over-chalked. Not nearly as good as it looks.
25
swj said on May 9th, 2011
wow, lots of chalk on this for sure. great hands free rest right in the middle. got pumped a bit towards the top, feels like it would be fun to go back and do this several more times, and enjoy perfecting the flow of the moves
26
Redpoint said on August 19th, 2011
The bottom was wet, but I only needed to dry two footholds. By the time I got ready to get back on the wall one of the footholds needs to be dried again. The bottom half was seeping so bad you could see the water moving down the wall. After I got to some dry feet I had to take my hand and dry off the tips of my shoes. I got to the crux and got on some bad holds and had to do a dyno to save my onsight. It felt like a 5.11 crux the way I did it. Later on top rope I found a hold that I missed and figured out how to do it the 10a way. My GF climbs 10s at Rocksport and got shut down on this climb. I think it was because of all of the bad footholds; they remind me of the footholds that Rocksport puts on their 11s. She once sent a 10C at Techtonic wall, but it had good footholds. My conclusion is that if you have great footwork it's a 10A, if you have bad footwork it might feel like a really hard 10 or even an 11. If I had to give it an exact quality rating, I would give it 3 1/2 stars.
27
dlewis101 said on September 9th, 2011
Are you saying that if you have lousy technique than a climb feels harder? Just checking. But, yes, the bottom seeps and is often quite shitty. But the climb has footholds all over it, like, every where you put your feet.
28
Anonymous said on September 29th, 2011
added to my ticklist
29
milspecmark said on July 17th, 2012
Great route to do in the rain. Crux is from 2nd to 3rd bolt. Very fun route
30
alfredo said on June 2nd, 2013
Got on this yesterday, first time in probably 6 years. Back then it was a 10a. But it has seen so much traffic in that time that the footholds on the first 1/3 are now highly polished and very slippery. It no longer feels like a 10a. I bumped it up to 10c.
31
Anonymous said on October 29th, 2014
I believe a bolt is missing towards the top meaning there is a decent runout and some ledge fall potential towards the top. I don't remember the bolt number.
32
DrRockso said on January 19th, 2015
I don't think any bolts are missing, where you are talking about is where old bolts were. This could use a rebolting and the anchor situation cleaned up, there are currently no less than 5 bolts up there and several more old ones which were pounded in.
33
Anonymous said on January 19th, 2015
So clean it up then
34
DrRockso said on January 19th, 2015
It's on the short list.
35
Anonymous said on January 20th, 2015
Anon, Dr Rockso has already rebolted numerous routes in the Red. Sounds like you are the type of guy/gal that is down to help out. You can make a donation to help at: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/mankbank/MankBank.htm. Or if you are rebolting let me know and I'll get you supplies. Ian
36
Chiyram said on January 21st, 2015
This might be the best low 10 in the Red. My favorite anyway. When Dr. Rockso heads back to rebolt, I'm hoping to take a brush to some of those chalk streaks.
37
DrRockso said on April 15th, 2015
New SS Glue-Ins thanks to Slick Willy and Doc Hoc. Thanks ASCA for the bolts!
38
caribe said on December 21st, 2015
Ha ha Alfredo I could not agree with you more. DTL has seen so much traffic that it is now noticeably more difficult that it was 5 years ago. Passing bolt 2 is now pretty rough especially if you don't have the reach for it.
39
Anonymous said on December 21st, 2015
Agreed. I can't think of another RRG route which seemingly has turned from Sandstone to polished marble.
40
Anonymous said on December 21st, 2015
you're polishing your marbles right now aren't you ian? did you think pocket pool was going to help you climb pockets fool?