Ridin' the Short Buzz

This route is located in the Southern Region at Chica Bonita Wall

Flying the Bird


13.
+0
0 votes

When Rats Attack 5.10b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan in 2006
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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30 feet right of "Ridin' the Short Buzz". Climb the arĂȘte to a ledge, clip the bolt and surmount the 1st bulge climbing to another ledge. Cruise the next bulge then crimp and secret side pull your way the anchors.
Moves: Arete
Descent: Fixe Ring Anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.27 stars (55 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (50 votes)

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Submitted by: ghuffster
Date: Oct 22nd, 2017

Submitted by: krabikrabi
Date: Apr 30th, 2007

Submitted by: J-Rock
Date: Nov 21st, 2006

Comments

1
J-Rock said on November 21st, 2006
Beware of the feisty woodrat on this route. He really likes to eat ropes...
2
michaelarmand said on August 8th, 2007
Good climb...definitely stick clip though....
3
merrick said on April 29th, 2008
not the best rock quality but quite fun anyway...climbing bulges with jugs to rests on an exposed arete is bound to be a good time.
4
Shamis said on April 13th, 2009
Decent route. But I think the anchors are a little scary. The rock quality isn't so good, and the anchors are fairly close together on a gentle bulge. But there is a crack in between the 2 bolts and some cracks beneath the bulge. It is very unlikely to happen anytime soon, but I think the whole bulge could blow out. One more bolt about 2 feet above the anchor with a chain would probably make this a bit safer.
5
pigsteak said on April 13th, 2009
agreed..anchors need replaced on this one.
6
down4climbing said on March 7th, 2014
3rd and 4th bolts are loose! Need to get that checked! It is really bad!
7
Willy said on March 8th, 2014
You ever heard of something called a wrench?
8
Anonymous said on March 8th, 2014
Yeah, it's a good idea to throw an adjustable or 9/16 wrench in your pack and try tighten down spinners on your own. If the bolt is fused and won't tighten down, then you can report it on this page... There is a link right next to the bolt count. Thanks
9
Rooky said on April 13th, 2014
I tightened bolts 3 and 4.
10
Reambo said on April 14th, 2014
great variety of holds and movement, couple little bulges that were exciting, knee bar opportunity, awesome fun route, liked the dead tree dangling from the top, easy chains