MumMum

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Coyote Cliff

Thunderclinger


6.
+1
1 votes

Manteleer 5.9+ (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Mark Ryan, Skip Wolfe, Jared Hancock in 2005
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This route is the obvious bolted and flared/obtuse dihedral just left of MumMum. Originally thought to be a trad route, but the gear wasn't good enough to keep it from being R-rated. A reachy start on good jugs takes you to a ledge from which you can step left and cruise the crack above. Technical and enjoyable. First route put up at Coyote Cliff. There is an optional boulder problem direct start.
Moves: Dihedral
Descent: Fixe Ring Anchors
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.86 stars (63 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10a (67 votes)

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Submitted by: ray
Date: Nov 24th, 2006

Comments

1
gladhander said on November 5th, 2006
bolt 2-4 (I think) were soaking wet on a dry day during a mostly dry week (early Nov). Also it doesn't receive fall/winter light so it could be a while until it climbable. Looks great though.
2
Andrew said on June 29th, 2007
Maybe I suck, but this felt harder than Golden Road.
3
pigsteak said on June 29th, 2007
"maybe" you suck???????? understatemnt of the year...
4
Brentucky said on August 18th, 2007
cool climb; definitely worth doing if you're in the area. a few times i sort of wondered what move to pull, and then the name always popped back into my head to get me through!
5
Josephine said on August 24th, 2008
hard for a 5.9.
6
said on October 4th, 2008
bolt prior to what felt like the crux to me needs to be moved up to protect the move better. would not recommend for someone new to leading at this grade.
7
mojohand said on April 27th, 2009
Fun route with cool moves; veggie @ 1rst mantel drops the grade to 9-.
8
Power2U said on May 27th, 2012
Solid rock, great position, start was dry for us today. Definitely a nice 5.9!
9
Rooky said on June 10th, 2012
Getting over the mantle in the middle...scary fun!
10
nik said on March 19th, 2013
(1) this climb is really fun (minus the perma-wet spot). (2) it is MUCH harder than most 5.9s at the red. did more grunting and fussing up this thing than most 10s i've sent. i suppose it is a 9+ though...
11
rjackson said on June 16th, 2013
Caught it on a dry day for some afternoon awesomeness. By far one of the best 9's in the gorge. And kudos for the old school bolting. This one may humble an aspiring 9 leader if their head game is weak...
12
JR said on October 19th, 2015
In my top ten Muir valley routes. So good!