Lula Mae

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

Flying Serpents


23.
+0
0 votes

Abby Gabby Doo 5.8 (Sport)

First Ascent: Mike Susko, Stacia Susko in 2006
Length: 30ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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The remaining lines are located to the right of the top of the second set of stairs. Continue to the top of the stairs then head right. This route is the first bolted line encountered and begins about 100 feet right of the top of the stairs.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

1.68 stars (50 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9- (47 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Dec 11th, 2006

Comments

1
soccerfast007 said on November 6th, 2006
Cool problem, build a little leading experience.
2
gladhander said on November 11th, 2006
Slimey! I'd wait until we have some hot dry summer days
3
tomdarch said on March 6th, 2008
Not a good route for beginner leaders - the second bolt is a sketchy/hard clip - stick clip 2nd bolt and skip the first.
4
michaelarmand said on March 17th, 2008
Not a good route, and not a 5.8 at the bottom.
5
Lander said on March 24th, 2008
not good.
6
Josephine said on March 24th, 2008
the start was awkward and the top was tricky. it had rained the day before and there was continual dripping just to the right of the line. the line was dry, but belayer and rope bag were getting dripped on pretty steadily. i thought it made a decent warm up.
7
tunedvwgti said on May 20th, 2008
The start of this route is not a 5.8 ; If the grading of a route is chosen by its crux, than this route a grade or two harder than posted...The second bolt should be stick clipped and it is MUCH easier. The second bolt is REALLY hard to clip from the overhung akward position the route places you in. Yuo can blow through the crux though if you dont have to hang out and try to clip it in the middle without falling. THE REST OF THE CLIMB IS 5.8- Just not the crux at the second bolt. Fun and challenging opportunity to get better though... do this climb as a warm up, just don't get to pumped out for the rest of the day trying to get clipped into the second bolt... The Boneyard is great. Do this climb along with cindarella and one armed-bandit..
8
pawilkes said on June 7th, 2008
overall the route kinda sucks. the start is awkward and the rest is really easy. HOWEVER, this is a great route to teach someone how to clean a route. the ledge at the top is big and you can second up someone to teach them.
9
dirtdog said on September 29th, 2008
I don't know about any akward overhung positions on this route... I did think that the move to the second bolt was harder than 5.8, but I probably could have done it an easier way.
10
said on June 23rd, 2009
Isnt there a trad line to the right of this up the crack? Tag said 5.6 we set up a TR from this climb. Had one bolt up at top. level with the anchors on this route. Also Like you said Paw... great for teaching how to clean.
11
Josephine said on June 24th, 2009
i would like to retract my comments. i thought i got on this route when i was really on something else completely. oops!
12
whatahutch said on July 29th, 2009
This route blows. I am sorry to say that and I don't want to make the bolters feel bad. But, it really did blow. Bad.
13
rjackson said on May 5th, 2013
I've climbed worse. I think t's a short old school eight and worth the couple of minutes if you're in the area and just hanging out. But be warned, it's not a gimme..
14
Dracolyth said on September 25th, 2016
This route is not a 5.9, clipping the second bolt is more of a 5.10b. This is a bolt off to the left you can walk round and scramble up to to rig for toprope.