One-Armed Bandit

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

Hoosierheights.com


5.
+1
1 votes

Captain Blondie Sinks the Ship 5.11a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Craig Luebben, Kris Hampton, Sarah Gross in 2006
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 11 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin just left of the arete with an easy vertical section which quickly leads to a left-angling and pumpy overhanging face. Dig for heel-toes when you need them to recover.
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.29 stars (79 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (82 votes)

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Comments

1
ray said on December 10th, 2006
Kind of dirty but it should clean up well. The moves are cool. Some slopers, heel-toe cams, and pockets. Pumpy.
2
Power2U said on May 26th, 2007
Best climb on the wall, not saying much!
3
steep4me said on June 4th, 2007
Only good route on the wall--but still dirty and somewhat chossy
4
alfredo said on July 9th, 2007
Great fun climb!
5
Meadows said on July 28th, 2008
Smells like poo from the ground up until the last bulge!
6
randomboulder said on October 13th, 2008
this route had a bit of everything. pretty fun.
7
woman said on November 8th, 2009
Its cleaned up, and is really fun. one of my favorite 11's
8
mike_anderson said on November 15th, 2009
Ouch! Sharp holds.
9
Wolf said on May 28th, 2012
A really fun journey.
10
whoneedsfeet said on July 2nd, 2012
Super fun. Rests break this up into three fun gorilla swinging probs on cool holds.
11
Anonymous said on July 2nd, 2012
Your core must be quite weak....
12
whoneedsfeet said on July 2nd, 2012
Don't forget about the horrible footwork as well.
13
Spikeddem said on July 2nd, 2012
Jimmy passed on the palladium core and gave it to Tony Stark. Jimmy instead has a core made of crusty socks, toothpicks, and a carrot. So selfless.
14
dustonian said on July 2nd, 2012
haha! what about pop tarts and ding-dongs?
15
tbwilsonky said on July 3rd, 2012
i onsite flashed this one...