Armed Insurection

This route is located in the Muir Valley at The Boneyard

Lucy Goosey


2.
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0 votes

Cindarella 5.9 (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Cinda Norton, J.J. in 2005
Length: 80ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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This is the 2nd route to the left of the wooden stairs and is located 15 feet left of Armed Insurection. Begin on a flake and climb a low angled pocketed face to a more overhanging finish.
Descent: 2 bolt anchor
Stays Dry:
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.12 stars (86 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (101 votes)

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Submitted by: ddchil01
Date: Apr 18th, 2017

Comments

1
soccerfast007 said on November 6th, 2006
Pretty cool route. Good holds, sidepulls, underclings, sweet view from the top. Be sure to betashark one armed bandit while you are up there, these routes will be much more fun when they clean up, fun times, fun times.
2
Andrew said on May 8th, 2007
This route would be good if it was not like climbing vertical carpet.
3
Josephine said on July 8th, 2007
DIRTY - but was nice to climb something that wasn't covered in chalk for a change.
4
Lander said on March 24th, 2008
Weird holds to the break, then a romp to the anchors. It's clean now too.
5
endercore said on April 22nd, 2008
surprised by the starting moves.
6
tunedvwgti said on May 20th, 2008
Great route! Fun Moves, and I found this route a bit more more tiring than I was expecting, (I was probably just shot because it was my last climb of the day!) The boneyard is a great wall with multiple routes near this grade that you should hit!
7
pawilkes said on June 7th, 2008
the opening moves were challenging but the rest of the route kinda sucked, not a fan
8
randomboulder said on October 13th, 2008
something must have broken off the start or i was missing something because the moves off the ground felt alot harder than 5.9, the rest was good.
9
chossmonkey said on October 25th, 2008
The start isn't hard if you do it right.
10
allen said on July 14th, 2009
ok no way this is a 5.9. amazing route though, will only get better with traffic
11
Redpoint said on October 14th, 2010
I loved this route, but two British guys said they thought that it was the worst route they climbed all day and recommended One Armed Bandit. I liked it because of the ledges, all the great feet, the cool cruxes, and you can crawl inside of a hueco. I think the start is V1, it definitely felt like 11a climbing to me. The crux almost got me because I started to go the wrong way, but I retreated and figured it out. The cruxes definitely felt harder than your typical 5.9 gym route. I would rate them at 10-. WARNING BETA: One was a pinch with your left hand where you put three fingers on top and squeeze with your thumb and make a long move with your right. The other I call the "C" crux because that's the arrangement of the holds. You start with a right handed pocket, then a slightly higher left handed three finger crimp, then bump up with your left to another crimp, then go up with your right to the jug.
12
kevin614d said on May 30th, 2011
It is a fun climb now. The start is shitty though and definitely not a 5.9 move. The first bolt is also gone, but it still is not bad to the bolt.
13
ZeroContent said on April 17th, 2012
The first bolt has been fixed. Begin is a pain, skinny and pointy toed shoe just about required for the obvious first right foot pocket. Rest of the climb is fun.
14
rjackson said on April 14th, 2013
Start was not bad once we (Josh) figured it out. Beta alert: think really high right foot, layback and rockover. The rest of the route was just a fun romp on good shelves with an occasional bit of thoughtful trickery thrown in to keep it interesting. All in all, I think it's a really nice nine.
15
lena_chita said on November 4th, 2013
I guess the start doesn't count towards the grade, especially with stick clips... But I couldn't help thinking that putting the first ~8 feet of this route at the anchors of, say, Stain, would turn Stain into a 12d, at least. :)
16
Flunker said on August 25th, 2014
A0 5.9
17
merrick said on October 25th, 2016
With the erosion and polish the first few moves are no longer 5.9 for anyone of average or shorter height.. I would say they are closer to 10c-11a. However if you start with an assist on the first jug it is a nice RRG 5.9 with a little pumpy climbing but plenty of rests. Due to the start it does not make a good warm up for other things unless you skip the first few moves. I think it either needs to be upgraded, which would be a shame since the rest is very consistent, or something added suggesting skipping the first few moves.
18
DrRockso said on January 10th, 2017
Start is as hard as it's neighbor Armed Insurection, stick clip the first and pull through if you're looking for a 5.9/5.9+.
19
ddchil01 said on April 18th, 2017
Pretty tough start with a side pull and high foot but once you get up to the first bolt you are golden (we stick clipped the first bolt); very fun route all together!