Guernica (to second anchor)

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Gallery

Briefer History of Climb


26.
+5
5 votes

A Brief History of Climb 5.10b (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Blake Bowling in 2006
Length: 75ft
Bolts: 9 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Located at the far right at the gallery, after the unknown 10c, and just before the "oil pipe". Scramble up so-so rock to the high first bolt. Boulder past the next two bolts, then enjoy fun, steep climbing on good holds.

Route Spray
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Quality Consensus
 

4.27 stars (187 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (171 votes)

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Photos


Submitted by: Raiden
Date: Sep 4th, 2014

Submitted by: ferris
Date: Jun 26th, 2013

Submitted by: kentucky
Date: May 27th, 2013

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 23rd, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Aug 23rd, 2012

Submitted by: nrd2052
Date: Apr 4th, 2011

Submitted by: Anonymous
Date: Sep 15th, 2010

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Sep 10th, 2009

Submitted by: Redpoint
Date: Sep 10th, 2009

Submitted by: feelup0303
Date: Jun 29th, 2009

Comments

1
RRO said on January 2nd, 2007
kick ass climbing
2
Wes said on March 25th, 2007
Cool boulder problem down low, then fun, steep, plate pulling to finish. Good movement, but the rock is kinda choss, so beware of breaking holds!
3
Don McGlone said on March 26th, 2007
An exercise in what to grab and what not to grab. Cool moves and fun climbing. Just don't pull too hard!
4
chriss said on April 23rd, 2007
Must have cleaned up in the last month, seemed solid to me. Very fun climbing for the second half.
5
JR said on April 29th, 2007
Best route in the area(right side of gallery/left side of Volunter)
6
TIT said on August 26th, 2007
Very fun route, juggy holds. Great route for a 5.9 leader. Not trying to cause contraversy, but we thought it was a grade easier than 10. Everyone grades routes different.
7
pigsteak said on October 21st, 2007
nice find Blake.....the fragile rock just adds to the excitement.
8
tomdarch said on November 12th, 2007
Nice, fun route! I do have a gripe about the bolt spacing at the top, esp. with the iffy rock - a fall clipping the last bolt would def. drop you onto some ledgy stuff, and I'm pretty sure that blowing the anchors would have a similar result. The runout is fun for much stronger climbers, but the last bolt needs to be pulled with two new ones replacing it above and below so that the fun climbing doesn't break someone's ankles (or worse) when one of those flakes snaps.
9
caribe said on November 12th, 2007
Great route. I have taken people to it and told them to climb it for the majesty of the route. It is rare that such an easy line cruises up so high and so far over hung.
10
Lander said on December 24th, 2007
The jug haul at the end was awesome. I couldn't believe how wrapper the holds were.
11
Josephine said on December 29th, 2007
i thought it was super fun!!! v1 boulder plm to 5.9 overhung climbing! :-D the bolt spacing at the top added a bit of excitement, but the holds were great to clip from so i didn't worry i wouldn't be able to clip - just prayed that the clipping jug didn't break ;-)
12
Meadows said on December 30th, 2007
Josie, try climbing a Chris Martin route. You'll wet your pants trying to get to the next bolt.
13
Rollo said on April 27th, 2008
Super fun line and pleasing to the eye.
14
Jollygreen68 said on May 7th, 2008
Tough bouldery section at bottom, then forgettable middle section to awesome plate jug haul way up high. Beautiful route. Agree about the sketchy holds that might break off and the very long distance between the 2nd to last bolt to last bolt and then to the chains. Has potential for a HUGE fall down onto the ledges in the middle. Take a rest before attempting the jug haul to the top, cause a fall could be bad. Great route though, and just a beautiful section of wall.
15
Crankmas said on June 30th, 2008
1/2" quicklinks added to chains 6/29- Thanks for your help dude from Chicago.
16
Crankmas said on June 30th, 2008
1/2" quicklinks added to chains 6/29- Thanks for your help dude from Chicago.
17
whatahutch said on May 20th, 2009
The whole wall is hollow below the first bolt. The only hold has a big X on it, and I tested it and the thing started popping. Real scary. Beware.
18
DuppyC said on June 8th, 2009
Good times on this route, no worries on bolt placement, jug haul to the top with nice, long, clean fall potential.
19
Dman said on June 14th, 2009
great fun climbing. no holds broke with me and i climbed it 3 times and i weigh 200 pounds. love the overhang and the jugs after the halfway point.
20
feelup0303 said on June 30th, 2009
Great Climb! The route is to the right of the red line. I didn't want to mark over the route.
21
Barnacle Ben said on July 13th, 2009
I absolutely loved this route. It is such a cool looking line from the ground and climbs great. Rock quality and bolt placements seemed fine. The top section gets pumpy but all the holds are there so just hang on!
22
Izzy said on August 14th, 2009
Great route with awesome bolting. Some scary holds down low but solid up high with cool exposure. Don't stop to clip the anchors until they're chest high, there's some great stuff up there!
23
sgauss said on October 19th, 2009
The top is a blast! Try and work the rest before you launch into that section.
24
gripster said on November 23rd, 2009
best 10 at the Gallery. the bolting is fine, and the rock quality seemed fine as well, unless your a fat-ass.
25
CLIMBTRAD said on July 26th, 2010
WOW a must do thanks to the bolters great route!!
26
1 wheel drive said on September 21st, 2010
I'd agree that two bolts instead of one at the end would be safer. If a climber were to pull slack for clipping and fall, it could be an ugly landing. Great route, though! Dry after a rainy night.
27
dustonian said on September 21st, 2010
so, like, don't fall while clipping then... on any route.
28
Corona said on April 1st, 2011
This beats out ultra perm for the title of 'best sport route of the Red.' Hands down.
29
will5122 said on June 27th, 2011
I think the boulder problem at the bottom is a lot easier for tall people. I breezed through it anticipating something a little harder after watching another group struggle with it. Route has three sit down and have a sandwich rests before the killer jug haul at the top. This was my first 10C send and I'm very pleased. Awesome route
30
milspecmark said on August 29th, 2011
My first 10c. Loved it. Very physical climb.
31
nik said on May 8th, 2012
one of my favorite ten's i've done so far. fun boulder problem down low, to 2 bolts of forgettable mid-section, to ledge sit-down, to spectacular overhung plate pulling. no choss up top, bolt spacing is fine.
32
flashburn said on September 27th, 2012
Went up yesterday, the right hanger at the anchors is just a little loose. Bolt didn't appear to be moving at all.
33
Scorl said on July 8th, 2013
A note about rain: The rock stays dry even after a week straight of wet weather. Although the climber might get dripped on at the chains.
34
krisbranin said on April 2nd, 2014
One of the best 10b's I've done in the red. I was the shortest person in my group climbing it and the crux (bottom boulder problem) is a lot harder if you're under about 5'6 .. I had to use completely different beta than anyone else, so probably a 10c for shorties. One of my all time favorite 10's though. Use the rests well and you'll send it.
35
DrRockso said on June 24th, 2015
A snake was living in the crack/sidepull right of the 1st bolt today. Didn't get close enough to see if it was a copperhead or not, but heads up.
36
tradosaurus_rex said on March 7th, 2016
Somebody whipped on this yesterday & knocked off a sizeable hold (about 4"x4") around the 5th or 6th bolt. It was part of a heavily chalked plate so hopefully it doesn't degrade the climb.