Where's the Beef?

This route is located in the Southern Region at Bob Marley Crag

Eyeball Chaw


27.
+2
2 votes

Beta-vul Pipeline 5.12a (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Mark Johnson, Drew Cronan in 2006
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 5 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next route right of Where's the Beef. Begin near a pipeline that was drilled from the top of the crag and missed by a couple of feet at the bottom. Race up the steep wall on jugs.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
juggy (2) steep (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

3.89 stars (79 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.12a (54 votes)

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Submitted by: grantmason
Date: Oct 23rd, 2017

Submitted by: taristi
Date: Jun 30th, 2012

Submitted by: taristi
Date: Jun 30th, 2012

Submitted by: morganj8
Date: May 31st, 2012

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 6th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 6th, 2011

Submitted by: Elodie
Date: Jun 6th, 2011

Comments

1
allah said on April 24th, 2007
fun route needs a lot of traffic and a rubber mallet to it
2
Anonymous said on September 14th, 2007
awesome route
3
Green3 said on November 12th, 2007
biggest overhanging jugs in the Red... bigger than Up Yonder or Twinkie, course there is a crux up there somewhere.
4
Meadows said on July 7th, 2008
Awesome, classic route. Huge jugs for 5 bolts and a definite crux. Loved it!
5
steep4me said on April 20th, 2009
Fun route with lots of jugs! It's definitely a 12a crux for those under 5 feet 4 inches tall. If you are a normal sized person, the crux consists of 3 moves, versus 8 for short people.
6
Meadows said on April 20th, 2009
It's a 5.12 crux no matter your height.
7
Nick said on September 8th, 2009
Really fun steep jug hauling to a nice crux guarding the chains. Definitely worth getting on.
8
tejas said on September 8th, 2009
2 massive kneebars at the crux + fingerlocking in the teeth of death hold= 11c, Great climb though, seriously the biggest steep holds i've climbed on at the red.
9
krampus said on November 2nd, 2009
Loved the kneebar and finger lock, still a solid 12a
10
Dman said on October 3rd, 2010
awesome route jug jug jug to a nice lil crux one of my favorites
11
dustonian said on November 25th, 2010
super fun ergonomic climbing... one of the best jughauls around
12
Anonymous said on June 7th, 2011
Go Ginger Go!!
13
neeko said on February 6th, 2012
funny! I recommend you the new route on the right : same grade, same jugs and an interesting crux at the top
14
climb2core said on August 4th, 2012
I must suck at knee-bars because I couldn't get one despite trying several times. But the ledge before the crux is big enough you can shake out there pretty easily. Truly feels like gym climbing with all those positive incut jugs. Great climb and highly recommended.
15
climb2core said on September 4th, 2012
Pulled the first draw as it was grooved and sharp. Probably better to leave this one off in the future and just use your own for the day.
16
[email protected] said on October 30th, 2012
On Friday, 10/26/12, this route was missing the last draw and had no anchor biners. I was using it as a warm-up and didn't realize these were missing until I got to the second-to-last draw. Apparently, someone removed the last draw and anchor biners due to wear but failed to replace any of the gear. I did not have anything with me to put up in place of the missing stuff, so lowered. Just a heads up; not sure if anything has been replaced yet.
17
dustonian said on October 30th, 2012
All the ginsu aluminum crap needs to come off this wall, which it will be soon during the rebolt. If anyone wishes to donate to this effort please donate to www.teamsuckclimbing.com with a note about Bob Marley rebolt or check out https://www.facebook.com/events/418128278240961/?fref=ts about the winter BBQ fundraiser. In the meantime, please replace biners with steel, not aluminum. Thanks!!
18
Anonymous said on January 21st, 2013
Pulled most of the aluminum draws (coming back for the bottom 2) and left a couple steel cleaners, so take 4 of your own draws for the top 2-3 bolts and anchor. Please clean your draws when you leave.
19
DrRockso said on November 17th, 2013
Awesome route. Some of the bolts are getting pretty rusty as of 11/17/2013.
20
tyler.yarbrough said on December 21st, 2015
Harder than Tacit IMO, have to do a little more pulling at the crux!
21
Ebrain said on May 11th, 2016
my very first 5.12 send. so of course it haas a special place in my heart. lots of fun flowy jugs. get that arm bar rest before you pull the crux.
22
Anonymous said on May 11th, 2016
.11c , hope you didn't already have the send party
23
Anonymous said on May 12th, 2016
It's a 12a. Nice work
24
tazunemono said on August 28th, 2016
Bolt #4 (perma) quick link is open. I tried to screw shut but needed a wrench. Reported on badbolts.com but they don't replace permas. Probably would hold a fall but someone should bring a wrench and close the link. Or replace the link. http://badbolts.com/routes/50899fa9486e640002000002
25
Anonymous said on August 29th, 2016
Hey Taz, seems like you are getting out fairly regularly. "Someone" is just regular people like you, that go out and fix shit. How about you be that someone?
26
tazunemono said on August 29th, 2016
Happy to fix it next time I'm climbing at Bob Marley, but it may be a few months. In the meantime I"m sure this route will get climbed, so I thought I'd post here so someone reads and can bring a wrench and/or a new quicklink. I'll add a few links and a wrench to my bail biner bag for next time in case I encounter similar.