Peer Review

This route is located in the Southern Region at Solar Collector and Gold Coast

The "end" of the crag


54.
+0
0 votes

7-11 5.7 (Sport) **

First Ascent: Scott Brown, JATD crew in 2007
Length: 45ft
Bolts: 4 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Just right of Peer Review is another short bolted line on an arete. Although a blank looking face the grade is due to the fact that it's possible to stem off to the left.
Moves: Arete, technical
Descent: Anchors
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.76 stars (42 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9+ (45 votes)

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Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jan 20th, 2010

Comments

1
Don McGlone said on October 1st, 2007
Maybe a bit harder than 5.7 - even if you do stem.
2
JR said on October 1st, 2007
Monobrow revisited. Since when is the outside edge of a chimney an "arete"? I just couldn't win with a route like this. You can climb the 5.5 chimney and make 5.10 moves to make the clips, you can do the 5.7 stemming and make 5.9 moves to make the clips, or you can climb just the arete for a 5.10. Things are getting weird around here.
3
pigsteak said on October 1st, 2007
not even close to 5.7....this is the worst sandbag I've ever climbed. but the route is cool.
4
rhunt said on October 16th, 2007
I agree with the very very poor bolt placements! move the bolts or change the grade or a gumby will get over his/her head.
5
512OW said on October 22nd, 2007
5.9 or so if you stem... and the bolts are fine if stemming...
6
Sco Bro said on October 24th, 2007
The bolts were placed with the intention of someone climbing the arête, i.e., the harder variation. However, when grading the route it was opted to give it the lower grade since the most obvious line, and path of least resistance, was to take advantage of the occasional stem. I found the route considerably easier, with no hands rests, with some stemming versus just using the arête. If the consensus grade is higher I have no problem with the grade being changed. However, the current consensus is 10c and, in my opinion, that’s really excessive. This climb is significantly easier then Stool Sample, Poopie Head, Wadcutter or even the Rorschach Inkblot Test and therefore should not be rated the same or higher than these routes.
7
Anonymous said on November 19th, 2007
5.pile.
8
ashtray said on November 20th, 2007
somebody is wrong as this is a surprisingly good route. i give it 5.7d and *****. however, i feel that it should be worth at least 20 points and given its current point rating (0 points) it is hardly worth the time. Unless of course, you care more about your spray count more than your points (a fool's play as that just shows how much you care about image, but more on that later). I think the easiest fix is to just move all of the routes that are harder up 40 points to make room for the 5.7s. Additionally, i think some of the beginner climbers might be feeling left out and we wouldn't want anybody to feel alienated or weak. It is much better to assist in the illusion because remember, WE CARE and WE ARE NICE. Besides it is sooo awesome when the illusion bubble gets popped, say on some multi-pitch death route in CO or some other place where you can get killed on anything easier than 5.10. Accidental Social Darwinism in action.
9
charlie said on November 20th, 2007
Tray's a gladhander.
10
said on November 21st, 2007
social darwinism is a bonus
11
jenbongo said on April 20th, 2008
Don't get stuck in the chimney going for bolt 3 if you are leading. It's not really hard to get back out (10a), but scary. It's not any harder to stay out of the chimney. I just used the other wall for feet on my TR send. If you don't use the other wall at all, it's probably an 11.
12
Rollo said on May 3rd, 2015
weird and scary. this route is the flipside of monobrow but not half as good. if you climb 5.single-digit do yourself a favor and keep walking to "on the prowl"
13
goat largon said on October 18th, 2015
Got stuck in the chimney going for the 3rd bolt, had to bail. Not sure why it's rated 5.7.