The Glass Elevator

This route is located in the Southern Region at The Chocolate Factory

Loompa


69.
+0
0 votes

Oompa 5.10a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Kenny Barker, Julie Smith in 2007
Length: 55ft
Bolts: 6 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Next line right of Glass Elevator. Match and cross through an excellent line of sequential pockets and edges. A great line but doesn't deliver the pump you'll get from Loompa.
Moves: Plates
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Downpour
Owner: Private
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

3.84 stars (120 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.10b (126 votes)

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Submitted by: morganj8
Date: Mar 24th, 2012

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Sep 29th, 2008

Comments

1
allah said on November 26th, 2007
Julie is naming this line "Umpa"
2
allah said on November 26th, 2007
I mean "Oompa"
3
pigsteak said on November 27th, 2007
nice job kenny and julie..these two lines were very fun.
4
pawilkes said on February 7th, 2008
Nice find! if there were two or three more 10's like this, the Chocolate factory would be overrun by gumbys coming out to get on such good routes.
5
anticlmber said on February 8th, 2008
so for now i guess we can be happy that you're the only gumby thats made it out there.
6
Myke Dronez said on March 11th, 2008
Awesome climbing on flakes, pockets, and sidepulls to a more sequential face. Felt stiff and pumpy for the grade due to the steepness of the juggy section.
7
anticlmber said on March 25th, 2008
better of the two
8
Cleatus said on April 1st, 2008
Chain anchors, 65 ft, 6 bolts.
9
Brentucky said on February 15th, 2009
This climb is really fun, but if you get easily pumped on overhanging monster jugs and sidepulls then it will surely bleed your forearms dry just in time for the crux!
10
Bob&Pam said on March 7th, 2009
16 meters
11
lena_chita said on June 21st, 2009
Fun route! It felt every bit as hard as .10c next to it. I couldn't say that one was easier than the other.
12
rjackson said on August 2nd, 2009
What a solid line. Stout. I would not recommend this if you are trying to break into the grade.
13
Wes said on November 5th, 2009
This and the one to the right are killer. Two of the best 10's in the red for sure.
14
Josephine said on November 6th, 2012
10c felt right to me. Very pumpy, but managed to find 2 rests which helped a bunch :-)
15
Chiyram said on February 11th, 2013
Pretty fun climb. The switching between sidepulls is kind of interesting and a little tricky. I would say 10b or 10c for sure.
16
PunkRock said on May 29th, 2014
Glad I'm not the only one that thought this was stout for the grade. Super fun though!
17
Kyle Hartung said on July 14th, 2014
I'd say more like Red 10c. The hardest part was deciding which chalked-up holds sucked and which to use. I climbed the 10's in Great Wall at Muir Valley the next day, also rated 10a and they were a cake walk compared to this.
18
Rx2Climb said on October 7th, 2014
I am also glad to see that others have found this harder than the grade. I usually onsight 10a or 10b, but this route did me in. 2 great 20 ft+ falls. Look forward to getting back on it.
19
Rx2Climb said on October 17th, 2014
I was able to send this and Loompa on the second go. Fighting the pump did me in the first time. My key beta: have your partner hang the draws and go fast, really fast. Holds are there and if you are in doubt just keep bumping and going up. If endurance is your thing then you will probably be fine.
20
eduard said on May 17th, 2015
Crowds form for this and next line early on. Quite a bit harder than 10a, even when you have the beta and are not grabbing all kinds of footholds due to the sea of chalk.