Knees and Toes

This route is located in the Southern Region at Drive-By Crag

Maizy Mae


17.
+1
1 votes

Beer Belly 5.13a (Sport) ****

First Ascent: Mike Doyle in 2007
Length: 90ft
Bolts: 12 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Begin on Head and Shoulders. Climb to the 5th bolt, clip it, then head right through moderate climbing. Pull a hard move, grab a shake, then take on the final boulder problem just before the chains.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry:
Owner: RRGCC
Steepness:
pumpy (1) bouldery (1)
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Quality Consensus
 

4.56 stars (16 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.13a (9 votes)

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Submitted by: 512OW
Date: Sep 4th, 2008

Submitted by: 512OW
Date: Sep 4th, 2008

Comments

1
JR said on November 27th, 2007
Is this the first sport mid-route variation at the Red?
2
Wes said on November 27th, 2007
nope.
3
mike_doyle said on November 27th, 2007
I know that mid-route variations aren't popular at the red but also hoped the upper climbing would be worth it, and it is. I could have started it in the chossy corner just right of "head and shoulders" but thought starting up "head and shoulders" would provide better climbing. Get on it and let me know what you think.
4
allah said on November 28th, 2007
This thing is super fun Mike had a fun time trying to bolt this one :)
5
ray said on April 20th, 2008
Great addition to the wall. Thanks Mike! Cool boulder problem right after stepping away from Head and Shoulders.
6
maxclimb11 said on May 4th, 2008
this route has some of the coolest moves i have ever done at the red! thanks for bolting it!
7
512OW said on August 25th, 2008
This one felt hard. Falling at the chains 6 times in a row isn't fun, but the route is dope regardless... Unlike any other route in the Red. Fun, bouldery, rising traverse.
8
512OW said on September 4th, 2008
The hold in the above photo is NOT in, its merely submitted as proof of my full conversion from traddie to sportie.
9
Power2U said on April 9th, 2009
Quality climbing, solid for the grade.
10
pumpout2004 said on April 15th, 2013
Surprisingly hard!
11
Cocoapuffs1000 said on October 20th, 2015
The first permadraw (where the the route breaks from Head and Shoulders) is getting pretty sharp due to the traverse. Does it even need to be there? You're hanging your own draws up to that point anyhow...
12
Anonymous said on October 20th, 2015
no. take it down.