The Beeneling

This route is located in the Northern Gorge Region at Dunkan Rock

The "end" of the crag


6.
+0
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Treason at the Watchtower 5.9 (Trad) **

First Ascent: Matt Reichert, Scott Brown in 2008
Length: 155ft
Gear: (report bad anchors)

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This route is located on a bluff near Dunkan Rock. Located across the street from Fortress and Phantasia is this open corner of towering rock. From the road you should be able to identify a large pine tree on the left hand side of the cliff that is about 30 feet from the top. This is the belay station for the final pitch of this route. To reach, follow directions for Dunkan Rock, but direct yourself one bluff south of Dunkan. Upon arriving at the bluff, walk around the left side until you spot a pair of cracks about 50 feet up. This is the start of the second pitch. Keep walking around left (north) side of bluff another 50 feet until you can scramble up a ramp that leads to your right. This begins the first pitch, which consists of a thin chimney to a large ledge (25 feet, 5.6). Pitch two starts in the left crack of the pair you can see from the ground and goes over a bulge, up a hand crack to a no hands rest in an alcove. Place pro in the top of the alcove, down climb a bit and traverse ten feet right to the adjacent crack the bottom of which has a tree. Build a hanging belay ten-twenty feet up the adjacent crack to protect you second from a potential pendulum (50 feet, 5.Cool. Pitch three, pull a short roof off bomber hand jams, trudge some sludge up and right to an easy, but wildly exposed, mantle. Set up a belay off the big pine tree (50 feet, 5.Cool. Pitch four, a slab face with three pieces of pro (and no more), top out the route to one of the very best views in the Gorge (30 feet, 5.9). Walk off or perform three raps to reach the start and keep your rope.
The GPS coordinates for the top of the route is N37'50.597" W083'38.470"
Stays Dry:
Owner: NFS
Steepness:
vertical (1) adventerous (1) exposed (1)
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2.67 stars (3 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.9 (2 votes)

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Submitted by: njclimber
Date: Jun 1st, 2017

Submitted by: njclimber
Date: May 16th, 2017

Submitted by: njclimber
Date: May 16th, 2017

Comments

1
Sco Bro said on May 5th, 2008
Feel free to send me a PM if you want walk off info and/or beta for the gear on the top pitch.
2
Danny said on May 6th, 2008
This sounds awesome -- 155 feet! Thanks man.
3
Lander said on May 6th, 2008
don't know if i'll ever get on this but it deserves four stars for the name alone. so evocative. sounds like a novel or something. best name since stairway to freebird!
4
Sco Bro said on May 13th, 2008
The online guidebook currently says pitches 2 and 3 are 5.cool. Apparently that’s hipster lingo. The pitches go 5.8, both of them.
5
njclimber said on September 1st, 2017
Treason is the right crack system in the photo. Approximate GPS: N37.84067° W83.63817°
6
njclimber said on September 10th, 2017
Finally got on this thing. 2 star adventure route. Would be 3 stars if it ever cleans up. Starts on a ramp to the right of Dog Dreamin' https://www.mountainproject.com/v/dog-dreamin/113531010 Way more gear on the last pitch than the description implies although the rock is friable and has ledge fall potential. Combine this route with Dog Dreamin' for a pretty rad adventure multi pitch day. One could hike the clean trail ontop of Dunkan Rock to this bluff and rap in/climb out to avoid the bushwack to this cliff although if you know where you are going this route is less than 15 minutes from the car. (I highly suggest using some kind of GPS)