Lolita

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

The "end" of the crag


20.
+0
0 votes

American Psycho 5.11a (Sport) **

First Ascent: Ron Bateman in 2008
Length: 0ft
Bolts: 0 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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Move left of Lolita a few feet for this one. It's longer than Lolita and East of Eden but don't expect the same quality.
Descent: Chains
Stays Dry: Does not stay dry
Owner: Muir Valley
Steepness:

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Quality Consensus
 

2.45 stars (20 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11a (21 votes)

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Submitted by: ddchil01
Date: Sep 5th, 2017

Submitted by: SCIN
Date: Jun 2nd, 2008

Comments

1
pigsteak said on May 26th, 2008
This line is "American Psycho". Prob mid 11.
2
bcombs said on November 10th, 2008
Pretty crumbly still, probably will clean up and be a fine 11c. :-)
3
ray said on April 19th, 2009
Not as good as the two to the right on this wall.
4
dustonian said on July 22nd, 2012
some gnarly looking hangers for a route barely 4 years old
5
pigsteak said on July 23rd, 2012
just what we talked about eh dustin.... if I remember correctly this one also is in a water streak.
6
dustonian said on July 23rd, 2012
Next to one but not in it... just a humid, dank area much of the year. The hex heads and washers of the bolts looked pristine, but some of the non-stainless hangers look like they'd been up for decades already. It seems among expansion bolts, the dynastar golds hold up to corrosion the best of all, too bad they're not being made any more.
7
whoneedsfeet said on September 3rd, 2012
Fun climb like Dustin said a few of the hanger could be replaced with stainless. Some rock up top is still breaking so be aware.