The Unbearable Lightness of Being

This route is located in the Muir Valley at Bibliothek

The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock


12.
+0
0 votes

A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man 5.11b (Sport) ***

First Ascent: Ron Bateman, Josh Thurston, Betsey Adams in 2008
Length: 70ft
Bolts: 7 (report bad bolts/anchors)

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20 feet left of The Unbearable Lightness. Pinch and crimp up the overhanging face and don't waste time searching for huge double handed ledge jugs. The route to the right stole them all.

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Quality Consensus
 

3.7 stars (44 votes)
Grade Consensus
5.11b (44 votes)

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Comments

1
redpointron said on June 8th, 2008
as the pig would say, this rig is sent. the name is "A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man". 5.11b FA: Ron Bateman, Josh Thurston, Betsey Adams
2
heacocis said on June 8th, 2008
Great work Ron! This is a great route and I can't wait to get back on it.
3
512OW said on July 6th, 2008
Did it while it was soaking wet, but it was still enjoyable! Fun pumpy middle section.
4
Lil Josh said on June 28th, 2009
I liked this one. Pretty good holds most of the way.
5
Jollygreen68 said on October 18th, 2010
Awesome fun route! Somewhat steep, so there are clean falls, somewhat tall so the fun doesn't end to quickly. Mostly jugs–decent holds mixed with a few areas where you actually have to figure out how to rock climb and find a sequence to get you through to the chains. So fun and worth doing over and over. For someone at the 11 level, this is a great route to get stronger and more adept at becoming a real climber, and a great wall and route for the strong climber to get some laps in before heading to Midnight Surf. One of my favs for this level, the whole wall looks like tons of fun!
6
jlu said on April 23rd, 2012
pumpy jughaul - this is the reason you come down to RRG. A couple shakes on the way up, but no rest beyond bolt 3. No move harder than a 5.11b, and no move easier than a 5.11b
7
Anonymous said on May 17th, 2014
You can destroy your Onsight by watching me (grumpy old man from Germany) during my 2nd go on this route here: https://vimeo.com/94875566